Hey there! I‘m Bianca from Blancheartsewing and I‘m happy to show you how to turn the Waimea Rash Guard into a stylish cycling shirt with handy pockets.
Let‘s get started.
For his hack I used the color blocked version as it gives a super sporty look, but you can also use the normal version.
After you printed the pattern, cut the front pieces and sleeves according to the instructions in the pattern.
If you chose the color blocked version, also cut the side pieces of the back according to the pattern.
1) The middle piece of the back will be cut longer to give a better coverage when sitting on the bike. Add 3“ at the center (fold) and 1“ on the side. Connect those two points with a slightly curved shape and cut out.
I also added some pockets to the back which is typical for cycling shirts to stow small things and still have a quick access to them even while riding the bike.
2) I measured 8“ from the bottom (the longer bottom of step 1!) on my middle back piece and marked it with a line. Cut the pattern on this line.
Note: If you want bigger pockets, just increase the height measured from the bottom. Also, if you use the solid pattern instead of the color blocked version, cut along this line and curve it a little bit to create a nice look.
Add 1“ on the top as seam allowance. Then cut out the pocket piece. After you cut the pocket piece, smoothen the edge marked with the yellow dart in the picture. Just cut in a light curve, as shown by the red line in the picture.
Note: You could also prepare this on the paper piece first, but as I wanted to re-use the pattern I didn't want to cut it too much so I wouldn't have to reprint it again for another shirt.
4) Attach clear elastic to the top of the pocket on the left side of the fabric. You can use your serger (without the knife, you don‘t want to cut the elastic) or a zig-zag stitch on a regular sewing machine. Stretch the elastic a tiny bit while sewing.
5) Fold over the top along the elastic (1/2“, depending on the width of the elastic you used). Top-stitch with an elastic stitch (Zig-zag, cover stitch,…)
6) After you prepared the back piece according to the pattern pin the pocket to the edges of the back piece and baste.
7) To make this step easier, I used my ironing board and pinned the back piece onto it. You want the back piece with the basted pocket to lie flat in front of you, so you might have to stretch it a bit because of the elastic along the pocket.
Measure the width of the pocket and divide by 3. If you prefer having 2 pockets only, divide by 2.
On my shirt it measured 16“. Divided by 3 I got 5,3“. I drew a line parallel to the sides with a distance of 5,3“ each.
Stitch along these markings from the bottom to the top of the pocket and secure the seams well at both ends.
I also added a side pocket with an invisible zipper to carry a key or something that I want to have secured in a zipped pocket. If you don‘t want to have this pocket just skip this part of the instructions.
Note: this step is a bit tricky. Maybe try on a muslin fist if you‘re not experienced with using zippers.
You will need an invisible zipper with the length you choose for your pocket. Mine is 8“ long. You can shorten it easily.
Before you add the zip pocket, attach the sleeves to the shirt.
8) Take the side front piece of your shirt and measure from the bottom of that piece to where you want your zipper to end. I used the upper cropped line for this.
Cut along this line to create a pocket piece. Cut 2 of those pieces as mirror images.
9) Prepare the front piece according to the instructions.
Now take the front piece and start pinning the zipper to the right side of the fabric, starting at the point where the both parts of the front piece come together (red dart in the picture).
When pinning, make sure the zipper looks like this. Invisible zippers are a bit special. You need to pin the teeth away like this:
Use a zipper foot to sew really close to the teeth of the zipper with 3/8“ seam allowance.
10) Take the pocket piece and clip it right sides together with the front piece. Turn around and sew exactly long the seam you attached the zipper with.
11) Repeat for the back piece. Pin the shirt properly to make sure the zipper does meet the same points as on the front piece
12) Now before you close the side seams, sew together the pocket pieces along the edges.
13) Sew together the side seams. Start at the sleeves and sew exactly to the point where the zipper begins.
Use a regular sewing machine to get close enough to the zipper.
Then start at the bottom of the zipper and start exactly where the zipper ends and sew all the way down to the bottom of the shirt.
This is what the zipper should look like from the outside:
As a last step fold over the bottom by 1“ and stitch the seam with an elastic stitch.
There you go - your cycling shirt is done :-)
To match the shirt I also made suitable cycling shorts, the new Cavallo Leggings pattern is just perfect for it!