Prepare the jacket front edge by ironing some strips of interfacing to the wrong side.
Flip it over and press a strip of wonder tape to the front edge with your fingers (not an iron) on the right side of the jacket.
Place the zipper/facing piece onto the edge of the jacket lining up the bottom and the top as instructed in the pattern. Add a few pins to stabilize the zipper even more.
Stitch the facing/zipper close to the teeth using a zipper foot.
Fold the collar edge down over the top of the facing/zipper and fold the bottom edge back up 3/8". Pin into place.
Stitch along the same stitch line you already stitched when installed the zipper.
Stitch the bottom of the hem facing the same way. Fold it up and stitch. There is no need to turn under the edge of of the facing since it is serged.
Turn both ends out and press.
Top stitch along the front zipper edge.
Fold the zipper facing out of the way and pin it back in a few locations.
Prepare the other front edge with interfacing and wonder tape as before.
Line up the other edge of the zipper tape with the remaining side. Press and pin the zipper to the edge. BEFORE YOU SEW, check the placement of the zipper! Make sure the collar lines up!
Stitch the remaining side with a zipper foot. Fold the collar and zipper facings like you did for the first side. Top stitch this edge as well. Before I top stitch this edge, I unzip the zipper.
Stitch around the collar or hood as instructed in the pattern. It looks best if you stitch on the right side of the hood or collar.
Press the hem facings up and stitch as instructed in the pattern. Press again.
Remember, if you are doing the pleated back, stop before you get to the pleated panel and start again under the pleats.
PRESS everything well and you are finished for the day!
Tomorrow we finish up by sewing the thumb cuffs and the sleeves!
See you tomorrow....
Angie
