Welcome to Day 2 and 3! Today and tomorrow we are going to stitch the back of the jacket. Since there are two options for the back I have the plain back first in grey fabric and the pleated back second in blue fabric. The grey is a softshell fleece lined fabric with the lighter grey being the wrong side. The blue fabric is supplex and it is harder to see the right and wrong sides in the pictures.
If you are making the plain back, pin the the side back to the back as shown and stitch with a 3/8" seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance to the center and top stitch. Top stitch with a LONG stitch for a more professional look. I use 3.5 or even 4.0 depending on the fabric. Repeat for the other Back and Side Back piece.
Now put both pieces together with right sides together and pin the center back seam. Stitch with a 3/8" seam allowance.
Press the seam allowance to one side and top stitch.
for the remaining steps for the plain back, scroll down until you see this: " ***********Both Plain Back and Pleated Back instructions**************"
If you are making the pleated back, start by transferring the pleat marks to the pleated panel.
Hem the bottom of the panel 1". I just turn under once and stitch with a coverstitch or a straight stitch.
Fold the pleats according to the pattern markings. I start on each end, and then do the center, and then the two remaining pleats in between.
Now, baste these pleats into place. A basting stitch is just a long stitch like a 4.0 or 5.0 stitch length.
Now fold the pleats all the way to the bottom and PRESS, and PRESS, and PRESS them flat. Check your heat settings on a scrap piece of fabric first and use a pressing cloth and steam if needed.
Set the pleated panel aside.
Now, pin and stitch the Upper Back with right sides together. Press the seam allowance to one side and top stitch.
Now take the back "under panel" and stitch the center seam with right sides together. Press the seam allowance to one side. There is no need to top stitch this seam.
Now, place the pleated panel on top of the under panel with both right sides facing up. Pin along the top edge and both sides. The bottom of the under panel should extend 3/8" longer than the pleated panel!
Baste into place across the top and both sides.
Now, place the pleated panel (sewn together with the under panel) on top of the upper back with right sides together. Stitch across the straight edge.
Fold it open and press the seam allowance up. Top stitch this seam.
Now stitch the side back pieces to the back with right sides together.
Press and top stitch this seam.
***************************Both Plain Back and Pleated Back instructions********************************
Next, lay out the back yoke and stitch the center seam with a 3/8" seam allowance. I like to use my sewing machine here and press the seam allowance open.
With right sides together, pin the back yoke to the back. Line up the center seams and stitch. this is a little tricky since there are two distinct curves on each side. I find it easier to only pin the center and stitch with the yoke on the top and the back on the bottom. I freely move the yoke around the curves as I stitch. Some of the testers liked it this way but many of them preferred to use lots of pins along the way.
Press the seam allowance UP and top stitch around this beautiful curve.
Serge along the side seams.
That is all for Day 2.... tomorrow we are going to work on the front and the side pockets.
See ya soon,
Angie
