Welcome to Day 4 of the Sundance Jacket Sew Along.
Today we will sew the front and optional side pockets. So first, lay out the front and the Side Front with right sides facing up.
Flip the sides over and place them on the front with right sides together. Pin and stitch this seam for both sides.
Top stitch this seam.
Lay the Front shoulder yoke near the Front as shown.
Flip the Front yoke down to the FRONT with right sides together. Pin and stitch both sides. The yoke will extend past the armscye just a little as shown.
Top stitch this seam on both sides.
If you have a serger, serge or neaten both side seams on the Front.
Lay the Front on the back with right sides together and re-mark the pocket markings if needed.
Stitch the side seam to the pocket markings, back tack. Continue to stitch the side seam from the second pocket mark to the bottom, back tack. If you are not installing the pockets, stitch the entire length of the side seam and you are finished for the day.
If you are installing the side pockets, press open the side seam.
Now, if you are lucky enough to have found 6" zippers you don't need to shorten them. I didn't find them locally so I am shortening 7" zippers to 6".
First mark the 6" starting with the tape at the upper zipper stop.
Use the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine and stitch a new "zipper stop" directly onto the zipper tape.
Trim off the excess zipper about 1" below the new stop.
Now use wonder tape (if you have some) or stitch witchery to position the zipper on the opening. Center the zipper on the seam!
Pin the zipper in a few locations but only pin through the zipper tape and the seam allowance!
With a zipper foot in your machine, stitch close to the zipper teeth the length of the zipper on both sides. Back tack at the start and finish to secure.
The right side of the jacket zipper should look like this:
Now, lay the front pocket on the zipper as shown with the pocket pointing to the BACK. Stitch along the seam allowance only, not through the jacket layer.
Fold the pocket to the FRONT. Press if desired.
Lay the BACK pocket on the front as shown.
Match up the curved part and pin through the seam allowance only. Stitch into place.
Finally, Stitch around the curved part of the pocket. I first stitch with a straight stitch on my sewing machine and follow up with a serger stitch around the pocket. Press.
That's it for Day 3. Tomorrow we complete the shoulder seam, install the collar and hem facing, and prep the front center zipper.
Until tomorrow, happy sewing!
-Angie
