Midway Bomber Jacket Hacks: Hood and Seam Binding

Posted by Sarah Connell on April 23, 2017

Welcome back to our series on hacks for the Midway Bomber Jacket!

Today, I'm excited to share with you a FREE hood add on for your Midway Bomber, and a tutorial for attaching the hood and adding in a seam binding to keep everything looking neat and tidy.

Are you ready? First, you'll need your Midway Bomber Jacket Pattern and your free Hood Add On.

Let's go!

Grab your hood fabric, and cut two hoods, mirror images.

Pin along the center back seam of the hood, and serge/sew, using the standard 3/8" seam allowance.

Fold back the front edge of the hood (the straight part on the right in the photo above), according to the marking on the pattern piece. Sew down to make your casing. If you're adding grommets or openings for a drawstring, put those in before you sew your casing down. I chose to do a reverse coverstitch, to go with the athletic vibe of my jacket, but a straight stitch is fine here too.

Yay! Your hood is assembled. Now we are going to attach it to the jacket, and add an optional binding around the seam, to keep it looking smart on the inside.

It's up to you whether you want your hood to go under or over your collar. I chose to put mine under the collar (when looking at the finished jacket), so it mimicked the look of a hoodie underneath the jacket. You could do the opposite, if you want, just make sure to adjust these steps with that in mind. Also, for this jacket, I'm using an exposed zipper with no lining, so all my pieces (hood and collar) went on top of the zip.

Fold your collar piece in half, and baste it closed. I do this with a slightly smaller than 3/8 seam, so I don't have to unpick it later. Cut a piece of binding the length of your jacket neck opening plus 1 inch, by 1.5 inches.

Pin the collar to the neck of the jacket. Baste it on.

Now, grab your hood piece, and stack that on top. Again, I like to baste it or attach it with wondertape, so I don't have to worry about it sliding around.

Finally, add your seam binding, with the right side facing the collar (wrong sides up). Sew/serge all layers together. Be careful when going over your zipper area!

Turn the short edge of the seam binding in, so it makes a nice fold at the zipper. This is why we cut it slightly longer than the opening. Then, fold the long edge of the binding down 1/4" and again so that it covers up the seam of the hood/jacket/collar. Use more wondertape to secure it, or use a bijillion pins. Sew the binding down. I find this looks the best when I sew from the wrong side of the jacket, so I don't miss any of that fiddly binding as I sew.

This is what this should look like from the inside of the jacket:

All topstitched down:

Finally, thread your drawstring through the opening in the hood.

And that's it! You've got an awesome hooded bomber jacket!

Don't forget we also have some awesome FREE cut files you can add in too!

Note: The seam binding is unnecessary if you are lining your jacket- then the seams will be covered by the lining. In that case, skip the binding and just sew the lining on top of the hood/collar keeping the hood down toward the body of the jacket.

I hope you're enjoying our SewAlong- there's still time to join HERE. And remember, you can always ask questions in the SewAlong group or on the GreenStyle Creations Facebook Page.