We need to remove the curve on the Upper Back and Pleated Skirt pieces to make them straight edges. The curve is cute when connecting to the original front piece. But when we put two curved back pieces together for the mod we end up with side seams that hang lower than the front and back centers. We'll straighten them out for a straight hem all the way around.
To make your modifications you will need:
1. Pattern Pieces: Pleated Skirt and Upper Back
2. Paper Cutting Scissors and Tape
3. Extra Paper
4. Cutting Mat and Straight Edge such as an Acrylic Ruler
Align the left Fold edge of your Pleated Skirt Piece with a vertical line on your cutting mat to create a right angle for the new top edge of your piece. See the yellow line below.
Slip a sheet of paper under your pattern piece and tape it in place to fill in the empty space creating a new top edge. Shown below. The edge on the right-hand side won't continue the side seam curve but don't worry about that for now. We'll adjust that side seam edge later.
Extend the Pleat markings to the new top edge with a pen or pencil (not shown).
Now set this piece aside for the moment and grab the Upper Back Piece.
For the Upper Back Piece we'll do the opposite adjustment. Instead of adding a wedge like we just did, we'll remove a wedge.
Line up the Fold edge of the Upper Back piece with a vertical line on your cutting mat. Draw a 90 degree line from the bottom of the fold edge across to the side seam edge as shown below in yellow.
Cut along the yellow line to remove the bottom wedge and create a new straight bottom edge.
I found that leaving the side seam as-is resulted in an outward lump at the seam between the Upper Back and Pleated back seams. Adjusting the side seam removes the lump resulting in a smooth side seam.
Line up the two pieces as shown and draw a straight line from the bottom side seam edge of the Pleated Skirt Piece to the top side seam edge of the Upper Back Piece.
Cut out your triangle gusset.
You can use either the gusset from the image below (just right click and save and then print at 100% scale) or use one from our leggings patterns! The image below also shows you a quick view guide of the changed order of construction for adding the gusset.
You should cut 2 gussets- 1 out of your main fabric, and 1 out of your lining. Then cut off the wedge of fabric from your back shorts crotch, both the main and lining pieces. The wedge you cut off will be 1" wide at the widest point and 2.5" long at the tallest point. Angle your ruler between these two points and cut off the little triangle. Make sure to do this for all 4 back pieces- 2 main and 2 lining.
Grab your triangle gusset
Sew gusset on
Attach the main triangle gusset to your main back piece, right sides together. Leave a bit of the bottom hanging off to account for your seam allowance. Sew with a stretch stitch at 3/8" seam allowance.
Sew back crotch together
Now lay your other main back piece right sides together with the back main piece you just sewed, and sew along the entire back crotch, making sure to catch the top of the gusset in your seam. I like to maneuver my seam to the side so when the gusset is attached, my seam lines look like this. Repeat the above steps with your lining pieces
Sew main front pieces together
Sew both the main and lining front pieces together at the crotch. Open both pieces up and sew the main back and main front pieces right sides together along the inseam. Repeat for the lining.
**This is the most difficult with the shortest inseam and more difficult with the lining. If you didn't cut or sew precisely, you might end up with not fully matched inseams. If this is the case for you, you can either stretch the back inseam to fit the front, or match at the very center and sew what you have and then trim off the extra fabric you have. Personally, I didn't cut this completely perfectly and messed up my seam allowance on one side and chose option 2. Here's what this looked like for me, so you can know that all of us make mistakes while sewing things up. Hopefully your sewn together crotch looks prettier than this. These still ended up fitting me fine, so don't sweat it too much!
Sew the hems
If you are encasing the elastic/drawstrings:
Place the main piece and lining piece right sides together. Sew along the hem lines. If you are encasing the elastic/drawstrings, stitch 3/8" in, leave a 1/2" hole, and then stitch the rest of the way until you get to the other side. Stop 7/8" away from the edge and backstitch. Leave a 1/2" hole and then stitch the last 3/8". This leaves holes for your elastic or drawstrings.
If you are using the foldover method, there is no need to leave holes.
Turn right sides out
Finish the shorts
Continue construction as per the instructions at step 5. Sew the side seams together and then thread in your elastic or ties, and attach your waistband!
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Welcome to Greenstyle! We're so happy you've found us! We look forward to getting to know you and sharing our love of sewing!
If you're new to Greenstyle, or PDF Patterns in general, you might have a few questions about how to purchase, download, print, and assemble your pattern- so we've written this blog post to walk you through the process step by step!
Quick Links
First off, you'll want to visit our website. This is where you can purchase patterns, watch instructional videos, download cut files, read our blog posts, and login to your account (once you've created one!).
Once you're on our main website, click on "Login" in the upper right hand corner. Follow the prompts to create an account at the bottom. (This is necessary for purchases and will speed up the checkout process later.)
Once you've got your account set up, you can hover your curser over the "Patterns Tab" to see the full selection of patterns we carry. We offer lots of designs for everyone! Curvy Fit, Straight Fit, Youth, and even FREE Patterns!
Once you browse through our selection and decide what pattern you'd like to sew - go ahead and add it to your cart! (If you've found multiple patterns you want to sew, you should check out our multi-pattern discount and save on your purchase!)
From the Curvy Fit selection, I am choosing the Veltori Top. Click add to cart and then click the "Cart" button in the top right hand side of the page.
In addition to a credit or debit card, we offer many options for you to pay, so choose which ever works best for you. Every option does require that you have an account, so if you haven't yet, please follow the prompts to create and verify your account. This will allow for you to easily access your patterns after purchase.
Once you've completed the checkout process, you can download the patterns files from your account. To find "My Account" look for the silhouette in the top right corner of the website. Once you are in your account, click "My Files and Videos" This will bring you to all the patterns you have purchased.
This is where it can get confusing for a new PDF user. Patterns come in different formats. Don't worry! We will lay it all out so you can be successful!
Instructions: This will guide you on suggested fabrics, sizing and fit, and show you step by step illustrations on how to assemble your pattern.
Quick Start Guide: This is for the experienced Sewist who only requires a few visual cues on how to assemble the pattern. This will give you numbered illustrations with no text so that you can jump directly into your project.
Letter Paper (US Sewist): This will be used if you are printing your pattern at home and want to assemble it with tape or glue before cutting the pieces out and then cutting into your fabric. Letter Paper designates the size of paper used within the United States.
A4 Paper (International Sewist): This will be used if you are printing your pattern at home and want to assemble it with tape or glue before cutting the pieces out and then cutting into your fabric. A4 designates the size of paper used in most every part of the world outside of the US.
A0 Paper: This file will be used if you are outsourcing the pattern printing to a copy shop to print on one (or sometimes two) large pieces of paper. This is beneficial if you do not want to tape or glue sheets of paper together to create a larger pattern sheet. It does save the labor of assembling the pattern yourself, but you typically have to wait to begin sewing. First sending the pattern to the copy shop, then wait for it to be printed and finally, shipped back to you. There are lots of places to get this done including local to you copy shops, FedEx, Kinkos, Staples, UPS, and Pdfplotting.com. (We have no affiliation with any of these vendors, but they are some that we have used with success.)
Projector: This file type is used with a projector. It's designed to project your pattern directly on to your fabric and takes the whole step of printing and assembling your pattern off your plate. You can start cutting in minutes after you've purchased your pattern! All of our patterns include a projector file! If you don't own a projector but you are interested in learning more, check out the Facebook Group for Projectors for Sewing. They have lots of helpful tips and tricks to get started.
Once you've decided on the best file for you, click the link to download to your computer. We recommend using the free program "Adobe Reader" to view and print your PDF Patterns.
Additionally, you get 10 downloads from each link on our website. For this reason, we recommend you find a safe place to store your downloaded patterns. Lots of websites offer limited free cloud storage to hold all of your patterns. Dropbox or Google Drive are two popular options.
First we will tackle printing your pattern at home. These directions go for both Letter Paper and A4 Paper.
Once you have downloaded your pattern, you'll need to print it, assuming you are doing so at home. Open the file on your computer, make sure you are choosing the correct file for your paper size, either Letter Paper file or A4 File. Make sure you are using Adobe Reader. This will allow you to view layers and print only the sizes you want to print.
Depending on the version of Adobe you have, the "Layers" button may be on the left or right of your screen. In this example, the layers button is the one the arrow is pointing to and shown on the right. (It looks like 2 cubes stacked on top of each other.) Once you click Layers, it will open this box that shows all sizes you can print from this pattern. You can toggle the visibility of the layer on or off by clicking the "eye" next to the size. (Size B through M)
Now you need to decide what sizes you want to print. You can choose to print only the sizes you need or you can choose to print all the sizes and save a master copy of the pattern from which you can trace the size you need onto tracing paper. If you have many people to sew for of various sizes, printing all sizes at once might be the best option for you.
For this example, I have chosen to print only my size. I have deselected all sizes except E. When I print, only E will be visible. Make sure you keep all three common layers selected! This will help you with pattern assembly and have the text layers needed to identify the pattern options.
You'll also want to make sure that your pattern prints at 100%, with no scaling. Check your printer dialog box to make sure that these items are selected. I tend to print my patterns in grayscale to preserve ink, but you can print in color if you like.
Depending on the size you are printing, some pages may be blank. I look through the pages and see if I need to print all or just some.
Additionally, I choose to only print the pattern file and view the instruction file on my computer to save paper. Some prefer to print instructions, do what works best for you!
Before printing all the pages, however, I highly recommend printing the first page, which will have a scaling box on it.
Measure the scaling box and make sure it measures 100% correctly - being off by even 1/8" will really affect the fit of your garment. If it doesn't match up, make sure you're printing at 100% scaling and try again.
Once you know you've got your pattern scaled correctly, go ahead and print the rest of the pattern pages. All Greenstyle patterns are NO TRIM patterns, which means you don't have to cut the edges off to assemble them, which is a huge timesaver!
Overlap the pages and align the edge of one page to the edge of the grey line of the next. Continue tiling the pages together and taping as you go, making sure to line them all up as precisely as possible. I like to go from top to bottom, and left to right. Follow the assembly guide in your instructions.
Once you've got your pattern assembled, you can trace or cut it out, and get started with your project!
Here's a brief video on assembling your patterns for those visual learners out there:
That's it- now you're ready to sew!
If you are using your projector, go ahead and open the Projector File of your pattern in Adobe Reader. Once it is open, you will see the pattern is all on one single page.
Next you will need to set the zoom that works for your projector. This can be found on the bottom right of the screen. Click either the plus or minus magnifying glass and then click on the numbers to edit to your specific calibration needs. I have set mine to 28% because this is the zoom my projector is calibratedto.
The zoom needs to be checked each time you open a pattern. Sometimes Adobe auto-sets the zoom on a file and this can have a tremendous impact on your final garment. It will likely turn out way to small or large and be unwearable if the zoom is off by even an eighth of an inch.
If this is your first time using your projector, you'll want to do some research on how to calibrate it. (Find the correct zoom and angle so that the pattern matches exact measurements when it is projected.) The zoom you will use will likely be unique to you. It depends on many things including the type of projector you are using, your ceiling height, and the height of the table you are cutting your fabric on. For help with calibrating your projector, check out Projectors for Sewing on Facebook or ProjectorSewing.com (Greenstyle is not affiliated with either recommendation above, these are popular resources to get started.)
Once you have your calibration set, click the layers button (marked with the arrow above) and open the layers box. Here you will choose your calibration layer. You have the choice to measure in Inches or Centimeters. Here, I have chosen Inches. This is an important step as it allows me to check that the zoom percentage I have set is accurate for this pattern! Once I set this layer, I use my ruler on my fabric to check that it meets 1" exactly. Once I confirm this, I can turn the calibration layer off. (By clicking the eye next to this layer) This allows me to see only my pattern lines and it is easier to cut accurately.
This image is taken at an angle to avoid my shadow showing so it doesn't look like it lines up perfectly, but it does! Trust me!
After confirming your zoom is accurate, go ahead and select the size (or sizes if you are blending) that you will be sewing. You do this by opening the Layers tab again and clicking the "eye" next to each size you want to hide. Here I have only 2 layers selected, size E and the Common Layer - Text.
Now you can close the Layers tab and begin to cut your pattern!
I like to plan out my cuts in advance by moving the pattern and fabric around to find the best placement. It's also a good tip to still use "Pattern Weights" even thought you aren't holding down a piece of paper, it still helps to hold your fabric in place. One more tip: If you press CTRL, ALT, and the Plus or Minus button on your keyboard, it will rotate the pattern left or right! I use this all the time to get the most out of my fabric. See how it works for you!
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We are so happy you've found Greenstyle and have jumped into the wonderful world of Indie Patterns. I hope you will continue to connect with us and share your creativity.
If you are looking for a lively and supportive community to share your love of sewing with, check us out in our private Facebook Community. Here you will find new friends, advice, be updated on special sales, and even contests throughout the year!
If you are looking for video tutorials to accompany our patterns, check out our YouTube where we have MANY sew along videos to make even the most complicated designs a breeze. In addition to sew along videos, you can find tutorials for different sewing techniques and hacks for our patterns!
You can also follow our Pattern Instagram and our Fabric Instagram and Pinterest to stay connected.
Happy Sewing!
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Lengthening the Boardwalk Skirt to just below the knee is easy to do and allows you to create yet another look with this fun pattern. It’s more easily accomplished with the solid (no stripe) version but you can also use the same simple technique outlined here to lengthen and make the side stripe version of the Boardwalk Skirt. This technique will retain the bottom width for a straight/pencil skirt effect, which works well just below the knee. But if you want to make the skirt longer, then you should add some width or a bottom slit for ease of walking.
Step 1
Determine how long you want the skirt to go. Measure from your belly button (or where the top of the skirt/bottom of your waistband will sit) to just below your knee. Add 1” for Hem allowance and now you have your Desired Length.
Step 2
Measure the pattern piece from the horizontal line just below the yoga waistband to the bottom. This is the Pattern Length and shown below as the green line A. Desired Length minus Pattern Length = Additional Length Needed
For reference, I am 5’3” tall and made size E Skirt. My Additional Length Needed is 7 ½”.
The Black Dots on the Front Piece indicate the widest part of the skirt and should hit you at the widest part of your hip. Measure down from your belly button (or wherever the top of the skirt/ bottom of the waistband will hit) to the widest part of your hip. If that measurement is different from the red line B shown above you can add/remove length so that the skirt fits more perfectly.
Step 3
Cut your pattern pieces in half at the dots. Note: The Back piece doesn’t have a dot so line up the front/back at the side seams to transfer the dot to the back piece.
Step 4
Separate the two pieces by the Additional Length Needed (7½” is shown) and redraw the lines. Notice that the angle of the center back seam will adjust slightly and you’ll trim off a very small amount of the back center bottom. Not much but just enough to keep that angle smooth.
Step 5
Cut out your new pieces and you’re ready to cut your fabric!
Enjoy your new Boardwalk Skirt! And happy sewing!
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It's our favorite time of the year! Presenting the 7th Annual The Perfect Fit Capsule Challenge! Everything you need to know about the challenge will be detailed in this blog post.
Every Monday for the next month, starting tomorrow, February 13th, a Greenstyle Facebook Admin will post the challenge of the week. These challenges are here to help you along the way while you build the perfect sewing capsule. Entering these challenges will give you a chance to win one of the many prizes! There will be plenty of discounts from us and our amazing sponsors available to help you build your capsule.
The end goal is to sew up a mini capsule of THREE or more items using only Greenstyle Patterns.
The Perfect Fit Capsule challenges will be held in our Facebook Group from February 12th to March 11th.
Weeks 1-3 will have 4-5 winners and the prizes range from prize packs to gift cards.
On the fourth and FINAL week of the challenge, you will not only have three or more new items in your closet, but you will have the chance to win the GRAND PRIZE! You can choose between a brand new serger or a sewing projector setup!
The prizes are not only limited to US Residents. We have some awesome sponsors from the UK and Canada.
The first thing you need to do is to assess your wardrobe and plan out your capsule. You can find The Perfect Fit Capsule Planner under "Files" in our Facebook Group.
Planning your capsule may or may not be one of our challenges... <hint hint>
Once you have your capsule planned you need supplies!
All Greenstyle Creation sewing patterns will be 25% off using code 2023PFC and select fabrics are on sale, no coupon needed.
The Fabric Fairy - 10% off using code "fitcapsule" until March 11th
Mily Mae Fabrics - 15% off regular priced fabric using code "GSCAPSULE15"
Raspberry Creek Fabrics - 20% off using code "GREENSTYLE20" until March 11th
Sew Dynamic - 15% off retail using code "GSPerfectFit23"
The Styled Magnolia - 10% of retail using code "GSCAP23" from Feb. 12th to 17th
Discovery Fabrics - 15% of using code "GSFC2023" with a minimum order of $50, 1 use per customer, from Feb. 13th to 28th
Boo! - use the code CAPSULE2023 for 15% off Fabric and PDF Patterns until 11 March. Code valid once per person. Click here to use the code.
WayMaker Fabrics - use the code GREENSTYLE15 for 15% off until March 11.
The Greenstyle YouTube channel offers many step-by-step tutorials for most of our patterns. And if you've missed any of our sew-a-longs, check out Cynthia's YouTube channel!
Thank you to all our amazing sponsors!
Boho, Button Bow Fabrics, The Fabric Fairy, Mily Mae Fabrics, Olga's Closet, Raspberry Creek Fabrics, Sew Dynamic, The Styled Magnolia, Surge Fabric Shop, Discovery Fabrics, Wattle and Slate, Halo Fabric Addicts, Stitch Happens, Waymaker Fabrics, Keller Kreation Boo! Designs.
]]>A Mitered Corner Option for the Brighton Pullover
I think the easiest way to do a mitered corner is if the side seam allowance is the same as the bottom hem allowance. So, if we’ve got a one inch hem allowance we need to add 5/8ths of an inch to our side seam allowance, and have that extra seam allowance run up the side seam from the bottom to about an inch past the mark where the seam ends and the split starts. In these two photos the original pattern lines are in purple, new cutting lines are in green, and the seam lines are in orange.
Measure and mark twice the hem amount from the bottom corner on both the side edge and the bottom edge. In this case the hem is one inch, so you will measure 2 inches up the side and 2 inches along the bottom. Draw a diagonal line connecting these marks. This will be your stitching line (in orange). Now mark your cutting line at 3/8” out from your stitching line (in green).
This is your adjusted pattern piece:
I recommend that you finish the raw edges of the bodice sides and bottom with a serger at this point. Do not finish the diagonal edge. In this third photo I hope you can see that I’ve serged the side and bottom, but left the diagonal raw. I’ve dotted the diagonal with wash away marker. I sincerely hope it washes away!
We are now going to sew the miter! Fold the bottom corner, right sides together, so that your two finished edges of the side and the bottom meet and sew along where we cut on the diagonal. If this looks odd, just baste it to make sure you’ve got it folded right.
I like to sew this seam on a regular machine so that you can clip the corner and press the seam open before you turn it right sides out.
If you have a tailor’s clapper, now is the time to use it! It makes pressing into the corner a breeze.
Turn your corner right side out and gently poke out the point.
Now, sew up your side seams and stitch your hem in place. Normally I would have sewn the side seams up first, and finished the mitered corners after that. I think that is a little easier, but this worked okay and it was easier to take the pictures. Here is the inside:
And here is the right side:
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At least two separate points on the extension piece, place a mark 1” above the bottom. You will then use these points and connect them with a straight line to finish creating the pattern extension piece.
Cut this thumbhole extension out and tape it to the existing cuff pattern piece. You need to add one additional marking. From the original end of the arm cuff pattern piece, you will measure down 2” and place a mark. This will be used to transfer these points to your fabric.
Take the modified Arm Cuff pattern piece and cut your fabric on the fold. Transfer two points from the pattern piece onto your fabric. Make one mark at the original pattern piece end point and another mark at the point we marked 2” below in step above. Make sure that you transfer these points to both sides of your fabric (left and right) and that you put them on both the right side and wrong side of your fabric. I like to use a disappearing fabric marker for this.
Once you unfold your fabric, it should look like the below. For future reference, these marks will be labeled 1 through 4 from top to bottom.
You will now begin to sew you arm cuff. Fold the fabric in half with right sides together hot dog style. Your first stitch line will be between points 2 and 3. I like to use the lightning stitch on my standard sewing machine for this.
Now take the top and bottom edges of your top layer of fabric and fold them back. After this, fold the cuff in half hamburger style so that your right sides of the fabric are together. In this position, marks 2 and 3 should be in line and marks 1 and 4 should be in line. Beginning exactly where the last stitch line left off, you will sew a line between these two points (where 1 and 4 meet and where 2 and 3 meet). Be careful not to catch the fabric that you folded down.
We will now repeat this for the other side. Find the two parts of the fabric that you had folded down in the previous step. To do this, I like to flip my cuff inside out. You will now place these two parts right sides together just like we did in the previous step. The same points should line up for this, just on the opposite side of your cuff. Marks 2 and 3 will line up and Marks 1 and 4 will line up. Just like in the previous step, stitch between these two points.
For this next step, some tutorials say to make your cuff look like a fortune cookie, but I prefer to turn my cuff so that it lays with right sides out. From the previous step, you can flip it out so that it lays how a cuff will normally lay once attached to a garment. This helps me to visualize which of the remaining points will need to get sewn together. Once you have it in this position, you can take the layer of fabric on the back side and flip it up. In looking at the cuff in this way, the top portion will meet to get sewn and the bottom portion will meet to get sewn.
Fold the cuff in half hot dog style with right sides together. Once it’s folded in half, you will line up the point where your previous seam ended and line up your cuff right sides together along the entire end. Sew two separate seams. One will be from your center point toward the top. The second one will be from your center point down.
Now just flip the top portion of your cuff over the bottom so that wrong sides are together and you have a completed thumbhole cuff!
The sewing process for this thumbhole addition very closely resembles the Greenstyle video previously posted for an option for the Sundance jacket. If you would like to watch this in action, the video can be viewed here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXmnn5RsR4A
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Alpine Ear Warmer
This is a must-have for winter activities. Keep your ears toasty warm while outdoors in the cold weather with this easy to sew pattern. It is also a great scrap buster and gift for your friends and loved ones.
Two sizes are included. The youth is great for ages 6 - teens and the adult is great for teens and up.
View the pattern here
Sew along with a video here
Bait Caster Reel Cover
This low profile bait caster reel will protect your reel from scratches while looking stylish at the same time. It allows you to protect your reel even while it's on the rod!
Chapstick Key Ring
Who doesn't love quick and easy access to our favorite lip gloss or lip balm? Now you can carry it everywhere even without a pocket. Snap it onto your keyring, your gym bag or a backpack. It is a quick and EASY project anyone can do.
View the pattern here
Pet Pullover
Keeping our furry best friends (does not fit rabbits or squirrels) warm will be easy with this cute pattern.
View the pattern here
Sew along with the video here
Scrunchie
What is old is new again! The scrunchie is making a come back and you will love our three (yes, three) versions of the classic scrunchie!
View the pattern here
Zipper Pouches
We can't make enough of these adorable zipper bags. This free pattern includes three sizes to use with 5", 7" or 9" zippers. It is a great way to use up those smaller pieces of woven fabric.
View the pattern here
Sew along with the video here
Nantucket Bucket Hat
The Nantucket Bucket Hat pattern is sized for the entire family and so much fun to make! Options include a narrow brim or a standard brim and two crown heights. There are also grommet placement guides!
View the pattern here
Neck Warmer
This contoured neck warmer is designed to hug your neck with a relaxing warmth and is great after a workout, the end of the day or anytime to help relieve stress or sore muscles.
An easy sew, it makes a great gift for holiday's, birthdays, anniversaries or just a gift for someone you care about.
View the pattern here
Adventure Bag
We hope you enjoy this versatile bag and take it along with you on all your fun adventures! You can make it a hip bag, cross body bag, bike bag or saddle bag! So many great options.
View the pattern here
Sew along with the video here
Green Tote
This handy tote is perfect for a trip to the grocery store or even the beach! It is a good project for a beginner or expert and makes a great gift for loved ones and friends. Ditch the plastic and paper bags and let's reuse, recycle and reduce!
View the pattern here
Sew along with the video here
Tho Thi Apron
This amazing sewing pattern was inspired by my Vietnamese aunt, Tho Thi. Small in stature, she owned any room she walked in with a grace and strength that defies words. Finding it difficult to locate an apron that didn't drag the ground, she designed this adjustable length (and reversible!) pattern years ago. Just tug on the straps until you get the length adjusted to taste, tie it up and enjoy! The apron has options for a pocket and comes in 2 sizes, 'Sous-Chef' and 'Chef'.
View the pattern here
Oven Mittowel
This is more than just an ordinary kitchen towel or a simple oven mitt. It's a dish towel, hand towel, hot pad, a hot pot holder and more! With two hand pocket size options and thumb holes for a better squeeze, the 'Mittowel' is a quick and easy gift but make sure you get extra fabric, because you'll want to make one for yourself!
View the pattern here
Lounge Pants
These comfortable lounge pants are perfect for the whole family. They come with the standard PJ long leg option, several shorts lengths, jogger knit cuffs, or elastic cuffs.
View the pattern here
Sew along with a video here
Waimea Bottoms - Hacked to Undies
These swim bottoms have a fun side pocket for stashing a pool key, hotel card or a tube of sunscreen. There is a mid rise or high rise option along with two different waistbands including a standard elastic waistband OR a fold over yoga waistband. Our newest video shows you how to hack this pattern into everyday undies!
Per usual, the tester's different styles and creativity really shine through with this super cute and versatile pattern. Hopefully you can find some inspiration here and don't forget to share it on Facebook and/or Instagram. #GSDiamondPullover
This beautiful pullover lends itself to your creative matching skills. You can colorblock to your heart's content or if you are unsure of your matching skills or short on time, just make the simple version! It's all about what you want. The fit is easy and comfortable, what's not to love?
Get your pattern here!
Need fabric? Check out the Greenstyle French Terry and matching Rib Knits!
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Get the pattern here!
Need fabric? Check out the newly stocked French Terry and matching Rib Knits!
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Katie Kimmel - Follow on Instagram here!
Kimberly Mertz Dehuff - Follow on Instagram here!
Lisa Woods Zimmerman - Follow on Instagram here!
Winona horton - Follow on Instagram here!
Robin Pickett - Follow on Instagram here!
Nicole Jose - Follow on Instagram here!
Susi Schuegraf - Follow on Instagram here!
Florida Nordstrom - Follow on Instagram here!
Eva Buchel - Follow on Instagram here!
Lian Nesbitt - Follow on Instagram here!
Cyn Sule - Follow on Instagram here!
Rejeana Ebata - Follow on Instagram here!
Danielle Allen - Follow on Instagram here!
Tania Keller - Follow on Instagram here!
Cynthia Hendrickson - Follow on Instagram here!
Holly Ward - Follow on Instagram here!
Sarah Treece Boses
Vicki Jean - Follow on Instagram here!
Elda A Castillo - Follow on Instagram here!
Lola McLachlan - Follow on Instagram here!
Maddie Allen - Follow on Instagram here!
Tara Marie Veal Karmas - Follow on Instagram here!
Emily Kennedy - Follow on Instagram here!
Sonia Jessop - Follow on Instagram here!
Jennie Darling Walters - Follow on Instagram here!
Shelly Andrews - Follow on Instagram here!
Daisy Buitrago - Follow on Instagram here!
The man I love LOVES pockets – the more the merrier, so I’ve added pockets to his motion shorts to keep him happy. He also likes his pockets to be secure enough for his phone, car keys, etc. so there are Velcro flaps and zippers to keep everything where it belongs.
Cutting Pieces:
Cargo Pockets
Zipped Pockets
Assemble pockets:
Cargo pockets
Fold cargo pocket as desired: box pleat, inverted pleat, or single fold. Use CENTER and FOLD lines as guides
Zipper Pockets
Fold zipper stops/tabs in half, right sides together, to create a clean finish at the zipper ends.
Step 4 (from Motion Shorts instructions)
Neaten the cut out on pocket liner
Step 5 Pocket
Neaten the cut out on main pocket
Step 6
Stitch along finished edge INCLUDING the cut outs. BASTE along the side seam making sure the pocket stays free
After Step 16 add pockets to shorts
For pocket placement a) mark 2” from lower edge of the shorts (hem allowance) and b) lowest edge of the main pocket HINT: pin main pocket out of the way when attaching the pockets
Center pockets on shorts using the side seams as a guide. Center is ½” towards the front. This puts the pockets equal distance from the side seam
Sew Pockets in place. Edgestitch and topstitch if desired
For cargo flap: sew flap on upside down ½” above the top of pocket using a narrow seam allowance. Fold down and press, then top stitch enclosing raw edges. Optional: add Velcro
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Some hacks require altering multiple pieces of the pattern. This mashup only requires modifying the back bodice to recreate the Lulu top! The Centerfield Raglan pattern and the Tie Back Tank pattern come together perfectly to make this mashup a reality.
I sized up the Centerfield one size for a more relaxed fit. If you want an even more-relaxed/ boxy fit, you could size up one more. I used my measured size for the Tie Back Tank.
Front Bodice and Sleeves
Cut front and sleeves of Centerfield Raglan. For the side seam of the front, cut a straight line from the bottom of the armscye to the bottom of the bodice. Removing the curve from the waist will allow the front bodice to fit with the back of the tank bodice. Use the straight line option of the bodice.
Neckline
Cut the lower neckline of the Centerfield*
Cut the neckband from the Centerfield pattern.**
* The Lulu inspo top has a more scooped neckline. I ended up lowering the neckline an extra ¾” after I sewed the pieces together and did a fit check. I extended the lower cut line out to the sleeves, gradually brining it back to the original pattern line.
**If you alter the neckline, wait until after the bodices and sleeves are assembled to measure the neckline. Your neckband will be 85-90% of the shirt opening, depending on the recovery of your fabric.
Back Bodice
For the back of the top, we will start with Tie Back Tank back. Use the back edge of the sleeve from the raglan to cut the correct line for the upper back of the bodice. You will need two mirrored images of the back bodice.
Align the bottom of the back of the sleeve’s armscye to the bottom of the bodice armscye. The top of the sleeve will meet up at the neckline the same distance as the neckline of the raglan.
For example, the neckline of the back bodice of the raglan is 4 ½” for the size I made. I put the top of the sleeve 2 ¼” from the center of the tank neckline.
Cut along the sleeve line of the raglan, then follow the lines of the tank for the remainder of the back piece.
Assembly
Run, Rest, Repeat.
These shorts so comfortable you will want to wear them every day. They make great running shorts, sleeping shorts or everyday shorts.
Available options (Adult):
Available options (Youth)
Adult pattern available here.
Youth pattern available here.
Bundle available here.
Now onto our tester round-up!
Ang Hal
Rib knit for the bike shorts and a not very stretchy rayon French terry for the outer shorts
Britney Fong - Follow on Instagram here!
Adult- Briefs are CL and outer shorts textured stretch woven from Fabricland
Youth - Fabric is Aria AK from Stitch Happens
Cassandra Noone
Size E
Cynthia Solis Hendrickson - Follow on Instagram here!
Youth - Greenstyle Swim fabric for inner shorts
Cynthia Suleman - Follow on Instagram here!
Youth - Nylon/Spandex from Joann's for both layers
Dana Miller - Follow on Instagram here!
CL for inner undies and stretch mess for outer shorts
Donna Milani
Eva Buchel
Fabric is from Fabric Fairy
Florida Nordstrom
French Terry for outer shorts and athletic knit for inner shorts
Jess Webbe - Follow on Instagram here!
Adult - Size C
Youth - Size 5
Jody Rice Kappas
Swim from So Sew English
Youth - Greenstyle Mesh for outer shorts, athletic fabric from the Styled Magnolia for the inner shorts
Kelly Gonthier - Follow on Instagram here!
Swim fabric from fb marketplace. Paired with the Cali Top.
Keri Blewett
Youth - Cotton spandex for inner shorts and athletic mesh for the outer shorts
Krystol Ithomitis - Follow on Instagram here!
Lightweight ABP for the outer Shorts
Athletic knit for outer shorts and inner briefs
Youth
Maddie Allen - Follow on Instagram here!
Outer is athletic mesh from Made of Love Fabrics, inner shorts (except for pocket, are ButterAthletic from Halo Fabric Addicts.
Mona NicLeoid
Outer fabric is Heavyweight Mesh, undershorts Dolce Athletic Knit, both in colour Deep Teal, from Stitch Happens
Nicole Librojo
Nicole Walsh - Follow on Instagram here!
Youth - Size 5
Rachael Brown - Follow on Instagram here!
Bamboo wicking performance overlay and performance shorts from So Sew English
Bamboo wicking performance overlay and performance shorts from So Sew English
Rejeana Ebata - Follow on Instagram here!
Greenstyle Align for the outer shorts and ABP for the inner shorts from The Styled Magnolia
Youth - Lightweight athletic knit from WTFabrics for outer and inner shorts
Sarah Burrill - Follow on Instagram here!
Repreve Endurance from halo for biker shorts, and a light athletic material for outer shorts
Sarah removed about an inch from the front rise of the biker shorts.
Susi Schuegraf - Follow on Instagram here!
White fabric is from blue moon
Zebra print and pink is a Mexico City store
Synthia Fetke
Synthia Lee Gerritson
The inner shorts used a high GSM cotton lycra, for the outer I used a DBP
Tania Keller
Teal Keller - Follow on Instagram here!
Adult - Dark pair is jersey from sew dynamic with some random poly spandex undershorts
Light blue pair is stretch woven from the styled magnolia with agility undershorts, used fold over elastic on edges
Youth - Made with Greenstyle Agility
Adult - Size G
Tori Chapel
AOS (athletic or swim) from Bow Button and Greenstyle Mist for the briefs
Vicki Jean
Athletic knit for inner shorts and technical mesh from Halo for the outer shorts
Athletic Flex shorts, and the outter is a heavy mesh fabric from halo
Winona Horton - Follow on Instagram here!
Youth - Size 10
The same steps can be used to make normal underwear with a classic enclosed gusset. For period underwear with higher absorbency I would suggest a different construction, I will say a few words about that at the end.
Materials
You can use a wide variety of lightweight knit fabrics for the main body of your panties. If your main fabric is rather thin and soft, use a more stable fabric with good recovery for the waistband, especially if you are using the crossover V piece. We want these to sit snug and safe. In mine I used a soft and drapey bamboo rayon spandex for the main pieces and a mid-weight athletic knit for the waistband.
For the gusset of your period panties you will need three types of fabric: a wicking top layer, an absorbent core layer, a leak-proof bottom layer. For each of these three layers there are a variety of options depending on individual needs and preferences. I cannot list all possible options here. You will likely have to experiment a bit to find your perfect combination.
1) A wicking top layer. This is the fabric that sits closest to your skin. It is supposed to soak up moisture and lead it to the absorbent core. I like using athletic mesh for this purpose. You can also use any fabric that you would use for the gusset liner in normal panties, for example cotton spandex, rayon/bamboo spandex, thin athletic knits.
From the Greenstyle shop, the Mist Nylon Spandex or the Soft Mesh would be good options.
2) An absorbent core layer. This is the fabric that is sandwiched between the other two layers, so not visible in the finished panties. The fabrics that can be used here are the same that are used in cloth diapers. There is a wide range from hi-tech to very natural. You can also stack several layers of the same or different fabrics. Unlike in cloth pads it is not recommended to use too thick fabrics or too many layers in period panties as the gusset would become too bulky. I use hemp fleece which has good absorbency while being thin and drapey.
3) A leak-proof bottom layer. The most common fabric for this purpose is PUL (polyurethane laminate). A thin film of polyurethane is laminated to a woven or knit fabric, either cotton or a synthetic fibre. These fabrics are used for water-repellent outdoor garments, shower curtains, tents, diaper covers, mattress protectors, etc. For period panties I use slightly stretchy PUL-backed cotton knit.
4) Fold-over elastic (FOE). This is needed to finish the leg edges. There are various other options commonly used in underwear (picot elastic, lace trim, bands) but for our purpose fold-over elastic works best, as it neatly encases the multi-layer gusset without adding more bulk.
Pattern preparation
It is recommended to make at least one version of the Seaside as written before attempting the period panties, to get any potential fit issues out of the way. The existing garment will also help you prepare the pattern for our purpose.
As Seaside is meant to be made of swim knit and fully lined, I would suggest to size down for underwear.
You need the continuous front/back main piece (H1) and the waistband of your choice.
The main piece includes seam allowance along the leg edge because they are supposed to be hemmed with swim elastic. The legs of our panties are going to be finished with FOE which encases the fabric edge and does not require seam allowance. Therefore we need to cut off 3/8'' along the leg edge.
Mark the desired position of your gusset in the centre of the main piece. This is where it helps to have a finished Seaside already, as you can check where you would like the gusset to sit. You can also use a menstrual pad or liner for comparison.
Cut the pattern piece apart to make a separate front, back and gusset piece. Add seam allowances at the cut edges! I always tell myself I can add seam allowance on the fly while cutting the fabric, but five minutes later my brain has already deleted that. I've also tried writing "add seam allowance here" on the pieces with neon highlighers and I've still managed to ignore it. So I would strongly recommend to glue an actual seam allowance to the pieces!!
Create a second gusset piece: Copy the existing gusset piece. Cut off twice the width of the seam allowance at the top and bottom edge (so if you added 3/8'' seam allowance, cut off 3/4''), and cut off the width of your folded(!) FOE at the curved side edge. (So if your FOE is 3/4'' wide unfolded, that means 3/8'' folded, so that would be the width of the edge you cut off.)
In case you are confused: Yes, we created a first gusset piece where we added seam allowance, and then we created a second gusset piece where we removed it again and then some. Read on, you will soon see why :)
Cutting the fabrics
Cut the newly created front and back pieces from your main fabric.
Sewing steps
The most important trick for making leak-proof period panties is that no stitches are going through all three gusset layers. There will be stitches connecting the top and absorbent layer, there will be stitches connecting the gusset to the main fabric, and there will be stitches for the leg finishing. But in none of these places will there be any thread going through the absorbent layer to the outside - which could draw moisture to the outside and cause leaks.
Some period panties tutorials make a big deal about not using pins on the PUL, but there will be lots of stitches going through our PUL anyway, this is not a problem. So use pins to your heart's content!
1) "Quilt" the absorbent layer to the top layer.
If your absorbent layer is a fabric that sheds a lot, you can serge around the edges first. In my experience this is not strictly necessary as the absorbent layer will be encased. I have never seen any shedding from finished panties.
Place the absorbent layer centred on the wrong side of the top layer, pin or spray baste in place, stitch around the edges and in a crisscross pattern across the centre. It doesn't have to be pretty - of course you can make it pretty. We mainly want to make sure that the absorbent layer can't shift around and bunch up in there. Depending on your sewing machine it may work better with the absorbent layer on top or the other way round. The absorbent layer is non-stretchy while the top layer is stretchy, so this can be a bit tricky, take your time!
As you can see mine looks a bit wonky - it doesn't matter if it is not entirely symmetrical, you can still trim the edges of the absorbent layer a bit afterwards. But make sure that the two fabrics are lying reasonably flat. If there are big puckers or folds, discard it and start over. Two new gusset pieces are quick to cut, and you don't want to walk around with a weird bunchy gusset later ;)
These layers will be treated as one from here on, I am calling this the inner gusset. The other piece that we cut out of the leak-proof layer is the outer gusset.
2) Assembling the gusset
There are four pieces that have to be joined in order to create the main body of the panties: the front and back are being connected with the inner and outer gusset, with the seams encased between the gusset layers so that there is a smooth finish on the inside and outside.
Left: This is what the outside of the panties will look like: main fabric right side up, and outer gusset right side up. (The polyurethan film is on the inside / wrong side of the piece. The right side is what will be the furthest away from your body.)
Right: This is what the inside of the panties will look like: main fabric wrong side up, and inner gusset right side up. (The top layer that will be next to your skin is the right side, the absorbent layer is on the wrong side.)
Cross section of the finished gusset area that we are about to create: At the gusset seams the main fabric of the front and back will be sandwiched between the inner and outer gusset, with the seam allowances enclosed. The stitches of the gusset seams go through the top and bottom gusset layers but not through the absorbent layers. The absorbent layers is quilted to the top layer.
To sew the back gusset seam, stack the pieces as follows: Outer gusset right side up. Back piece right side down. Inner gusset right side down. The absorbent layer is visible on the very top. Make sure that you are using the broader ends of the gusset pieces.
The curves will not all go in the same direction, this is correct!
Mark the centre of the edge on all three pieces, and pin or clip them carefully easing the curves into each other.
Left: Stacking the three layers with centres marked.
Centre: Use as many clips or pins as you need to hold the curved edges neatly together.
Right: What it looks like from the other side, PUL-coated side of the outer gusset visible.
Stitch with a stretch stitch or serge. I do this with a lightning stitch on the regular sewing machine as I want to keep the gusset seams as flat as possible. Depending on your sewing machine this may work better with the PUL on top or the other way round. Stick to your intended seam allowance! The seam should be equally distanced from the fabric edge and from the absorbent layer.
The front gusset seam is sewn in the same way. In order to sandwich the front piece between the two gusset layers, we need to roll the back piece out of the way, towards the back gusset seam. Keep the pieces stacked the same way as before: Outer gusset right side up. Front piece right side down. Inner gusset right side down. The absorbent layer is visible on the very top. Again the curves will not all go in the same direction, ease them in carefully.
Alternatively you can join the front and back to the outer gusset firsts (right sides together), then lay the outer gusset right side up, roll the front and back fabric up in the middle, place the inner gusset on top, right side down, and sew the two gusset seams again on the existing stitch lines.
Turn everything right side out, it should look like this: outside with main fabric right side and outer gusset, inside with main fabric wrong side and inner gusset. The absorbent layer is sandwiched in the middle.
3) Assembling the panties
Follow the original Seaside instructions for side seams and waist band.
4) Leg finishing
If you have never worked with fold-over elastic before, it is well worth practicing a bit on fabric scraps.
Baste the gusset edges with a long straight stitch or long narrow zigzag within the seam allowance. Trim any dog ears, thread tails or uneven bits of fabric at the gusset seams.
Cut the fold-over elastic according to the elastic cut chart in the pattern. Our leg edges are a tad bit longer because we cut off the seam allowance, but FOE is typically softer and stretchier than swim elastic, so we can use the same measurements. You can also measure the leg edge and cut the FOE at 95% of that.
Overlap the ends of the FOE and secure with a wide zigzag stitch.
Please note: The close-up pics in the following section are from a different project where the colours and lighting conditions make the stitches easier to see.
Pin the FOE to the leg edge, wrong side of elastic to wrong side of panties, aligning the centre fold of the elastic with the fabric edge.
Do not stretch the elastic along the gusset, stretch it mildly along the front leg edge and a bit more along the back leg edge. This is not an exact science! If you are unsure, you can also quarter your leg edge and elastic, pin accordingly, then redistribute the elastic carefully so that it is not stretched along the gusset edge.
Put the join of the elastic somewhere along the back edge, not at the side seam or along the gusset, to avoid additional bulk.
For the first round of stitching the elastic to the leg edge, make sure that the bobbin thread in your machine matches the colour of your elastic. The colour of the spool thread does not matter.
With the elastic underneath the fabric, stitch with a stretch stitch (lightning stitch or narrow zigzag), taking care to keep the fabric and elastic aligned. Ideally, keep the stitch line close to the fabric edge and to the fold line of the elastic, but do not let the fabric edge slip beyond the fold line and do not stitch on the fold line. If you find this tricky, you can try to keep the stitch line a bit furthr from the fabric edge, rather centred on the elastic half that is under your fabric. Depending on your sewing machine, you will be able to align the fabric edge and elastic edge with the edges or notches of your presser foot.
The two pics below show what the result looks like from the right side and wrong side.
Now fold the elastic around the fabric edge and pin or clip to hold in place. If it doesn't want to fold neatly, that's usually because the fabric is sticking out over the fold in some places. Trim back fabric edge carefully, taking care not to cut into the seam or into the elastic.
For the next round of stitching, make sure that both threads in your machine match the colour of your elastic. Topstitch with a wide zigzag, keeping the stitch line close to the open edge of the elastic. Ideally the "zig" of the stitch should be very close to the elastic edge, but definitely not beyond it, and the "zag" should be on the centre of the elastic and not too close to the outer edge. Again try to align the edges of the elastic with your presser foot and watch that, not the needle. It really helps to test your stitch settings on scraps, adjusting the width of your zigzag stitch to the width of your elastic.
And you are done!
Making regular underwear without absorbent function
You do not need the additional smaller gusset paper piece. Cut two layers from the larger gusset piece: one outer from your main fabric, one inner from a fabric that is breathable and feels nice on your skin. Proceed as shown.
You can also use different edge finishings like picot elastic or bands. Those do require seam allowance along the leg edge, but for example picot elastic is typically sewn with a narrower seam allowance, so you may have to cut a narrow strip off.
Making underwear with higher absorbency
The gusset as shown cannot be extended much further to the back and front than the length of a medium size pad or liner, it would feel awkward on the leg edges and would also put the absorbent layer in places where you really do not need it.
If you want to extend the gusset further in the centre front and/or centre back, you need to split the pattern piece differently, as shown here. The dotted blue lines are where I split for the liner-shaped gusset, and the solid green lines are where you would split it instead.
You can see that the lines would start around the same point at the leg edge, but would go straight up towards the waist seam. The whole centre piece would become the 3-layer gusset, and instead of joining the front and back pieces at the front and back gusset seams, you would join a left and right front piece and a left and right back piece by the same method.
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The major pattern changes for this mash up occur in the cutting stage. The two patterns need to be aligned at the shoulder, so if you use paper patterns, you can simply overlap the pattens (both the front pieces and the back), taping them at the shoulder.
I use a projector to cut, so in the images for this tutorial, you’ll see me flipping back and forth between the two patterns. If you're using a projector, find a point on your cutting mat where the midlines align and inner shoulder seam is as close as you can get to matching up.
The major difference in construction will be doing an inset sleeve after constructing the body according to Ascend instructions.
Cutting Instructions
Starting at the midpoint of the neck, cut at whichever neckline you want. I went with the depth of the Ascend. You will need to finish at the shoulder peak of the Green Tee (I just free-handed to blend the two).
Follow along the Green Tee shoulder seam and along the armscye. You’ll want to extend the armscye an extra ½” past the pattern piece.
Using a ruler, you will extend a line from the armscye down to the bottom side curve of your chosen length. Finish the front by following the hem curve of your desired length.
For the back, start by following the neckline of the ascend; stop it at the inner shoulder of the Green Tee.
Follow the shoulder line and armscye of the Green Tee. You will again extend ½” past the side seam.
Use your ruler to connect the armscye to the bottom curve of the Ascend.
Follow along the bottom hem of the tank.
Also, cut the sleeves and neckband for the Green Tee.
Assembly Instructions
Follow steps 1-3 of the Ascend instructions: fold the side seams and topstitch the side and bottom hem. Serge/ stretch stitch the shoulders. Overlap the hem, front over back. You will topstitch 4” PLUS the extra amount you extended the side seam to the bottom of the armscye. For mine, it was a total topstitch line of 8” because the side-seam was extended 4”.
We are going to do an inset sleeve. Serge the seams of the sleeves right side together. Flip sleeve right side out; fold and topstitch the sleeve cuff.
Turn shirt bodice inside out. Keep the sleeve right side out and slip it inside the shirt bodice; sleeve and shirt should be RST. Pin in place and serge around the armscye.
Finish by attaching the neckband; top stitch if desired. Aaaaannd you’re done!
]]>Download the pattern piece here!
First, cut 2 collar pieces and interface one of them. This will be the outer collar. Sew them together along three sides.
Next, trim the corners.
I like to understitch so the collar has a nice edge. Open the collar and stitch close to the seam with the seam allowance pushed to the under collar. It’s not necessary to stitch along the entire seam, only as far as you can.
Turn the collar the right way out and press.
The collar will be attached one to one to the finished Bali neckline. Start by marking the center of the collar and the center of the Bali neckline. Match the centers with the underside of the collar to the inside of the neckband at the finished neck seam.
Pin one to one all the way to the edges without stretching the collar.
Using the sewing machine, sew the collar to the neckline. As I had serged the neckband on previously, I attached the collar using a 1/4” seam allowance. Turn your shirt right way out, press your collar and you’re done!
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Partial Shelf Bra Modification
Additional supplies:
1” elastic
Swim lining
Power mesh (optional/ suggested for bigger busts)
Those needing additional support may consider also cutting a layer the front out of power mesh, same as you did with the swim lining.
4. Cut elastic 1-2” short of the width of the front piece, depending on personal preference. Align elastic to raw edge. Serge/ stretch stitch with a slight stretch, pulling so the elastic spans the width of the fabric. Turn up to wrap the elastic in fabric, and top stitch along top edge.
5. Construct the Aria front as instructed in the pattern.
6. Align front and back at the shoulder seam, right sides together. Swim lining and optional power mesh will be outside the main swim fabric. Stretch stitch along the shoulder seam.
7. Align along the side seam; the top edge of the elastic from your shelf bra will be just under the serge line of the bodice and twist. Fold the back hem up 1” over the front, as instructed in the pattern.
8. Flip Aria right side out. The sewn edges will be encased by the flipped up back. Top stitch along the 1” upturned back hem as instructed. Attach arm bands/ sleeves as desired.
The inside of your Aria should look like this when finished:
Enjoy your new swim top/ low impact partial shelf Aria!
]]>The Ascend Tank is a super comfortable curved split hem tank that has two lengths: cropped or full, two neck and armscye finishing techniques: bands or binding, and two back options: racerback or U back. This tank is a super quick, straightforward sew and is perfect for a confident beginner. The most difficult part of this pattern is probably hemming the curve on the front and back pieces, but once you get the hang of that, its such a quick and satisfying sew! The asymmetric hem is longer in the back and shorter in the front to offer some booty coverage, and the longer length offers great coverage in both the front and back for those who want to wear leggings but don't necessarily want to show off all the goods in them. It also features a low armscye to show off your favorite sports bra! My favorite feature of this pattern is the split side hem. You can choose how open you want it to be by how far down you topstitch. The pattern instructions recommend topstitching down 4", however if you want it to be a little more closed you can stitch farther down, or if you want it more open only stitch it down a little, the choice is yours!
This pattern follows our current curvy size chart and covers size B-M. We recommend using light weight, flowy fabrics with at least 50% stretch like Bamboo Spandex, Rayon Spandex, Nylon Spandex, Tricot, etc. All sizes only take one yard of fabric, so this is a great "one yard wonder" sew!
Grab the Ascend Tank here, on sale for $8.50 until Monday April 4, after which it will return to its full price of $12.00.
Here are our fabulous testers showing off their Ascend tanks. Check them out below and show them some love!
Adrienne Cianfrocca:
Stats/Mods: Size F, no mods. Cropped length, racerback.
Single Brushed Poly from My Favorite Fabrics.
Allison Moroso:
Stats/Mods: Size F, shortened 1/2" for height.
Poly Spandex Jaguar from The Fabric Fairy.
Alyson Jaruszkiewicz:
Stats/Mods: Size F, no mods, long length, racerback.
Bamboo Jersey from Halo Fabrics.
Bamboo Jersey Knit from MimiFabrics.
Bamboo Jersey Knit from MimiFabrics.
Amanda Jones:
Stats/Mods: Size C no mods
Bamboo Lycra from So Sew English.
Bamboo from Mibs Fabrics UK and mesh from Minerva UK.
Cotton Lycra from personal fabric stash.
Ang Hal:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Lightweight Rayon French Terry from stash.
Bernice V:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Athletic Knit from Greenstyle.
Athletic Brushed Poly 125 gsm from Surge Fabrics.
Caita Clemerson:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Bamboo Lycra from Stitch Happens.
Celine KHoo:
Stats/Mods: Size E, shortened 1/2" for height.
Modal Spandex from fabric stash.
Chloe Snyder:
Stats/Mods: Size H
Cotton Jersey from fabric stash.
Chris Shapiro:
Stats/Mods: Size G
Galaxy Mesh from Sly Fox Fabrics.
Athletic Knit from Surge Fabrics.
Rib Knit from fabric stash.
Athletic Knit from Amelia Lane Designs.
Christina Pikas:
Stats/Mods: Size H graded to J
Mystery Knit from Walmart.
Mystery Knit from Walmart.
Cynthia Hendrickson:
Stats/Mods: Size E, 2" removed from back length.
Athletic Knit from Blended Thread Fabrics.
Cotton Jersey Knit from Olga's Closet.
Daisy Buitrago:
Stats/Mods: Size B, with 1" removed for swayback adjustment
Double Brushed Polyester from fabric stash.
Dana Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size J no mods.
Knit fabric from Joann's.
Danielle Allen:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Nylon Swim from Sew Dynamic Fabrics Group and Mesh from fabric stash.
Double Brushed Polyester from Ash and Elm.
Eva Buchel:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Lightweight Athletic Knit from fabric stash.
Lightweight Athletic Knit from fabric stash.
Knit from fabric stash.
Gena DuBose:
Stats/Mods: Size E no mods.
Heavy Cupro from So Sew English.
Cotton Spandex from fabric stash.
Holly Ward:
Stats/Mods: Size G
Knit fabric from Made of Love fabrics.
Knit fabric from Made of Love fabrics.
Jennie Lindstrom:
Stats/Mods: Size C
Cotton Lycra from fabric stash.
JL Talamantes:
Stats/Mods: Size H
Double Brushed Polyester from fabric stash.
Mesh with DTY bands.
Jocie Goldman:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Bamboo Lycra from fabric stash.
Kamali Obiagu:
Stats/Mods: Size I
Athletic Knit from Surge Fabric Shop.
Athletic Knit from Surge Fabric Shop.
Karina Trinidad:
Stats/Mods: Size H to I
Light Athletic Knit from local fabric store.
Kimberly Dehuff:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Soft Mesh from Greenstyle Fabrics.
Krystal Lee:
Stats/Mods: Size B
Liverpool from fabric stash.
Mesh from fabric stash.
Leah Winkelmann:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Wicking Athletic from Cali Fabrics.
Lian Nesbitt:
Stats/Mods: Size H
Bamboo Spandex from Blended Thread Fabrics.
Lisa Greenwood:
Stats/Mods:
Knit fabric from stash.
Mary Cheddie:
Stats/Mods: Size G no mods.
Bamboo Spandex from Joann's.
Bamboo Spandex from Joann's.
Maryfrances Fabbri:
Stats/Mods: Size F no mods.
Waffle Knit from fabric stash.
Double Brushed Poly from fabric stash.
Poly Spandex from fabric stash.
Double Brushed Poly from fabric stash.
Rejeana Ebata:
Stats/Mods: Size C
Athletic Knit from WTFabrics.
Shelley Colton:
Stats/Mods: Size K graded to M hips.
Bamboo Lycra from fabric stash.
Shelly Andrews:
Stats/Mods: Size I
Athletic Brushed Poly from The Styled Magnolia.
Susi Schuegraf:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Knit from fabric stash.
Knit from fabric stash.
Tania Keller:
Stats/Mods: Size C
Jersey Knit from fabric stash.
Jersey Knit from fabric stash.
Teal Keller:
Stats/Mods: Size D no mods.
Rayon Spandex from Nick of Time Textiles.
Rayon Spandex from Walmart.
Tori Chapel:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Mid Weight Athletic Knit from Spandex by the yard.
125 GSM Athletic Brushed Poly from Surge.
Winona Horton:
Stats/Mods: Size H
Double Brushed Poly from Fabric.com.
Stretch Mesh from Amazon.
]]>
Hi Greenies! It’s Kyema here with a quick hack for the Youth Strides. I’ve been seeing these cute ruffle athletic pants all over in RTW clothing and I thought it would be the perfect addition to the Stride Tights and a great way to wrap up a month where we’ve been celebrating this pattern.
You are going to need to measure and cut out all the pieces like normal. I chose not to add the pocket to this pair.
Here you see:
-2 fronts
-2 backs
-2 side inserts
-2 inner waistbands
-2 outer waistbands
-1 one strip for the ruffle that is not included in the pattern (This is what we’re going to add for this hack! :)
Because we are changing the pattern slightly, the assembly steps will change from the pattern.
Step 1: Determine how long you want your ruffle to be and mark this with a pin on both sides of the BACK pieces.
Step 2: Using a flexible measuring tape, measure around the curve from the pinned point to the CENTER BACK.
Step 3: Take the measurement you got in the previous step and double it. This will account for both sides of the tights. You will then want to times that measurement by 1.75 to give extra room for when we gather it.
Mine measured 7.5”.
7.5” x 2 = 15”
15” x 1.75 = 26.25”
Step 4: With RST, sew the BACK pieces together at the crotch seam.
Step 5: With RST, sew the SIDE INSERT pieces together at the CENTER BACK.
Step 6: Sew a gathering stitch on the long edge of the ruffle with a ¼” seam allowance.
Step 7: Gather the ruffle to the length you marked in step 1. Pin the gathered ruffle to the pants back.
Step 8: Line up the bottom edge of the ruffle corner with the raw edge of the BACK piece. This will create a “dog ear” on the ruffle that will be removed with a serger blade or can be cut off after sewing so that the ruffle is flush with the top of the curve. Base in place with a ¼” seam allowance.
Step 9: Align BACK and SIDE INSERT at CENTER BACK SEAM and pin in place. Continue pinning all the way around. I like to pin the center back seam and then pin together at each ankle and pin from ankle to center seam. This helps me keep the straight portion straight and follow the curve with the appropriate amount of stretch. Serge this seam to create the back piece.
Step 10: Now you have the back legging piece created. Next, you'll sew the FRONT pieces together on the crotch seam with RST. Then, place the front and BACK pieces RST, aligning the waist and ankle edges and sew inseam and outer seam together. Lastly, you'll follow the tutorial to make and attach the waistband.
Tadah! You're all done! I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and can make some cute ruffle butt Stride Tights for a loved one in your life. My daughter loves hers!
Hi, I am Mona and I am going to show you a useful little hack for the Pacific Pullover. It can also be applied to the Lumia Zip Jacket and to the Whistler Jacket, I will say a few words about that at the end.
Pattern preparation:
We are going to add a horizontal seam to the centre front above the bust, to make the installation of the zipper easier. If you do not want to cut your master
copy apart, print or trace the centre front piece again. Draw a horizontal at the level of the armhole corner and cut the piece apart as shown. We will call this the upper and lower centre front. Add seam allowance to both pieces at the cut edge. Cut one of the lower centre front on the fold, and cut two of the upper centre front, not on the fold. (I also add a bit of seam allowance at the vertical edges of the upper centre front pieces. Some people say when you attach a zipper the bit of fabric that is taken away by the seam is added back in by the zipper itself, but I find that with they way I sew zippers, with the seam very close to the zipper teeth, this does not work.)
Zipper:
I prefer working with zipper tape, but you can also use a fixed length zipper (separating or closed does not matter, the bottom end is going to be stitched across and cut off anyway). I like cutting my zippers a bit longer than needed, so
that I can move the zipper pull out of the way during the installation. The precise length of the zipper is length of outer collar plus length of upper centre front minus 1 ¼ inch. Eyeballing the length of the outer collar and front piece and adding 1-2 inches works for me :)
Fabric for zipper guard: You can use a scrap of your main fabric or something else. It should be a lighter weight and feel pleasant against your skin. A brushed athletic or lingerie knit works well. You can prepare a paper piece for this, but I just cut it directly from the fabric. Measure the width of your zipper, double it and add 1 ½ inch. (The finished zipper guard should be a bit wider than the actual zipper, and you need seam allowance at one long edge as well.) For example: Zipper is 1 ½ inch wide, your fabric piece should be 4 ½ inches wide. The length of the piece depends on how much you want to fold over at the top. I find that a fold of 1 ¼ to 1 ½ inch works well. Therefore the precise length of the fabric piece is length of zipper plus length of folded bit plus 3/8 inch. Same as with the zipper, I just eyeball it and add 1-2 inches to be on the safe side :) \
Sewing steps before installing the zipper
Join the back and upper centre front pieces at the shoulders. Attach the outer collar to the neck edge.
Step 1: Create the Zipper Guard
Fold the fabric piece lengthwise. Mark the desired length of the fold-over bit at the top and draw a curve along the open corner (not through the lengthwise fold). You can use a French curve for this or any round item like a glass or cup. Sew along the curved and vertical edge with a 3/8 seam allowance. Do not sew along the short edge at the bottom. Clip the seam allowance and turn the piece inside out.
Step 2: Attach Zipper to Zipper Guard
Now you have to decide on which side of your garment you want the zipper garage. It does not matter for its functionality, but maybe you have a preference :) In my pictures the zipper guard gets attached to the left side of the garment from the wearer‘s perspective. Lay the fabric piece with the curved top pointing to the left. We want the zipper to be centred on the fabric piece, but in this step we are only attaching the right side. The top of the zipper should be just
below the desired fold. (If you are working with zipper tape, you can secure the top of it by melting, gluing, or folding it to the side, but the zipper pull will be stopped by the folded fabric anyway.) Use pins or wondertape to hold the zipper in place. Baste with a long straight stitch. This line of stitching does not have to be close to the zipper teeth. Nevertheless I would recommend using a zipper foot. Fold the curved top over the zipper and baste as well. You can also do this in one step while basting the zipper.
Step 3: Attach Zipper Guard to Garment
Put the zipper and the garment edge right sides together, garment edge aligned with the zipper edge, not with the guard edge! This works best if you lay the zipper guard right side up, apply wondertape on the garment edge, and carefully place it down onto the zipper tape. Pay special attention to the top of the collar, it goes beyond the folded zipper guard because we still need the seam allowance there to attach the inner collar. Stitch with zipper foot, close to the zipper teeth, with a medium length straight stitch. (There will be a relatively steep "bump" along your seam where the folded zipper garage ends. It is easy to end up with a pucker in the main fabric there. Go slowly and make sure the fabric does not bunch under the foot.)
Step 4: Attach Zipper to Other Side of Garment
Take a deep breath, you are almost done already! The only tricky thing left now is to get the other side aligned properly, so that the collar seam is in the same spot. For this I close the zipper, apply wondertape on the zipper tape, and carefully place the garment edge on the zipper right side down, with the top of the collar going beyond the zipper again, and making sure the collar seam is aligned precisely.
I can also recommend stitching this in two steps, starting at the collar seam going in one direction, then in the other. Yes I‘m a bit obsessed with that collar seam.
This is your zipper guard done! Yay!
Sewing steps after zipper installation
If you want to topstitch the zipper seams, now is the time to do so. I prefer mine without topstitching most of the time. Next, I complete the inner collar. My usual method for this resembles the Lumia instructions rather than the Pacific Pullover instructions. In any case it is a bit easier to do now than after you have assembled the whole front. Then stitch the lower centre front to the upper centre front. As you are going over the zipper, I recommend doing this with a sewing machine and stitching slowly through the zipper teeth. You can trim away the zipper teeth in the seam allowance and go over the seam again with a serger. Topstitch the seam allowance towards the lower front. Stitch the side panels to the centre front, continue with the rest of the assembly according to the pattern instructions.
Zipper Guard for Full Zip Jacket
If you want to add a zipper garage to the Lumia Zip Jacket or the Whistler Jacket, you have two options:
1) A zipper guard for the full length of the jacket. The bottom end will be hidden inside the band.
2) A short zipper guard that just covers the collar. In this case the bottom end of the guard needs to look neat, so start with two pieces of fabric, cut a curve at both ends, stitch along the curved edge, turn, then proceed with zipper installation. The non-curved long edge will be unfinished, but it will be hidden in the collar.
Who doesn‘t love a sleeve pocket? So convenient for running, for the gym, for winter sports, or for travelling. Perfect for a credit card, bus pass, key, banknotes, tissues, tickets, anything you want to keep safe and handy. And let‘s admit it, it just looks cool!
This pocket hack works best on the Pacific Pullover because of the two-piece sleeve. It can easily be modified for the Green Tee, Evergreen Tee, Excel Tee, Waimea Rash Guard, Hudson Pullover, or even the sweaters and jackets.
Fabric: You can either use your main fabric for the pocket pieces, for a sleek and unobtrusive look, or use the opportunity to add a colour contrast or athletic mesh. You only need scraps of a few inches length and width in addition to your normal sleeve fabric. You also need 1 1/2 inches more length than for a normal sleeve, due to the additional seam allowances.
Zipper: I recommend using nylon coil zipper tape because it is flat and lightweight. Pick a small and unobtrusive zipper pull, too.
Pattern preparation:
We are going to cut up the front sleeve piece. If you do not want to cut your master copy apart, print or trace the centre front piece again. First decide if you want the pocket on the left or right sleeve. The pattern piece with the right side
up is for the left sleeve, so if you want the pocket on your right sleeve, use the pattern piece wrong side up.
Take some time to consider the placement and dimensions of your pocket. Maybe you have a ready-to-wear shirt to compare to. For the pocket to sit comfortably on your upper arm I like to place it right under the armpit corner (leave enough space for the armhole seam allowance). The zipper sits in the centre of the sleeve, aligned with the notch at the top of the sleeve cap. The pocket starts an inch or two to the left of the zipper and extends to the vertical sleeve seam. You can measure the length of the pocket on your body, in order to make sure that it ends well above the elbow. I like to make mine 4 to 5 inches long.
Cutting the pieces:
Cut the two horizontal lines first. Add seam allowances at the cut edges! We will call these the sleeve cap, the pocket base, and the lower sleeve. Cut one of each from your fabric. Then cut the vertical lines on the pocket base paper piece. The larger, leftmost section is not used. The narrow middle piece is the front pocket half, and the right side piece is the back pocket half. Add seam allowance on all four edges of the front pocket half, and on all but the right side edge of the back pocket half. Cut one of each from your fabric.
Cut your zipper tape to the length of your pocket base. In fact I recommend cutting it an inch or two longer than you need, so that you can keep the zipper pull out of the way while installing the zipper. You can also do the first sewing step before adding the zipper pull, but it is easy to forget then!!
Step 1: Installing the Zipper
Lay the closed zipper right side up, apply wondertape to the left side, and attach the front pocket half, right sides together. Stitch with a zipper foot, with a medium length straight stitch close to the zipper teeth. Apply wondertape to the
right side of the zipper tape, attach the back pocket half and stitch in the same way. Topstitch the seams if you like, and trim the zipper tape at the top and bottom, making sure that your zipper pull is not sitting on the bit that you are cutting off.
Step 2: Pocket Assembly
Lay your pocket base right side up. Mark the position of the front pocket seam with pins or with a
wash-away pen (you can use your discarded paper piece A for this).
Lay your pocket piece with the zipper right side down onto the pocket base, so that the edge of the
front pocket half can be sewn in the marked seam position.
Stitch with a medium length straight stitch or with a narrow stretch stitch. Fold the pocket piece
over and topstitch the seam if you like.
Step 3: Sleeve Assembly
Before you continue, make sure that you have a zipper pull in your zipper! Just saying ;) Pin and stitch the sleeve cap and lower sleeve to the pocket base right sides together. As these seams go across the zipper, I recommend stitching with a sewing machine first, going slowly over the zipper teeth. Then trim the zipper teeth within the seam allowance and go over the seam again with a serger if you prefer this finish. Topstitch both seams with the seam allowance away from the
pocket base. Continue with the rest of the assembly according to the pattern instructions.
If you want to use this hack on one of the other Greenstyle tops that do not have a two-piece sleeve, you have two options:
1) Add your own vertical split into the sleeve.
2) Add a seam on the back pocket half just like on the front pocket half. This can be sewn with the pocket piece wrapped all the way around the back of the pocket base, or you could just fold in the seam allowance and topstitch the pocket onto the base. This method can also be applied on the Pacific Pullover if you do not want the pocket to reach all the way to the back sleeve seam.
Every Monday for the next month, starting tomorrow, February 14th, a Greenstyle Facebook Admin will post the challenge of the week. These challenges are here to help you along the way while you build the perfect sewing capsule. Entering these challenges will give you a chance to win one of the many prizes! There will be plenty of discounts from us and our amazing sponsors available to help you build your capsule.
The end goal is to sew up a mini capsule of THREE or more items using only Greenstyle Creation Patterns.
The Perfect Fit Capsule challenges will be held in our Facebook Group from February 14th to March 12th.
Weeks 1-3 will have 4-5 winners and the prizes range from prize packs to gift cards.
On the fourth and FINAL week of the challenge, you will not only have three or more new items in your closet, but you will have the chance to win the GRAND PRIZE! A brand new SERGER.
The prizes are not only limited to US Residents. We have some awesome sponsors from the UK and Canada.
The first thing you need to do is to assess your wardrobe and plan out your capsule. You can find The Perfect Fit Capsule Planner under "Files" in our Facebook Group.
Planning your capsule may or may not be one of our challenges... <hint hint>
Once you have your capsule planned you need supplies!
All Greenstyle Creation sewing patterns will be 25% off using code 2022PFC and select fabrics are on sale, no coupon needed.
This is a great time to pick up any sewing pattern that is on your wishlist!
Bow Button Fabrics - 20% off with code "ATHLETICS20"
Sew Dynamic Fabrics - 15% off Retail with code "SDFitCap22"
Discovery Trekking - 10% off with code "FitCapsule10"
Stitch Happens - 15% off with code "GSFITCAPSULE"
Ash and Elm - 15% off with code "GS15"
We have many sew along videos to help you out with the capsule. See the list below of all the available videos.
Along with all the above SAL videos, the Greenstyle Creations YouTube channel offers many step-by-step tutorials.
Thank you to our wonderful sponsors for making this challenge possible!
Bow Button Fabrics, Dana Miller Online, The Fabric Fairy, Mily Mae Fabrics, Olga's Closet, Raspberry Creek Fabric, Sew Dynamic, The Styled Magnolia, So Sew English Fabric, Surge Fabric Shop, Discovery Trekking, Wattle and Slate, Halo Fabrics, Ash and Elm, Stitch Happens
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What zippers to use?
If you don‘t have a lot of experience with zippers, I would suggest using nylon coil zippers, they are easier to handle than metal ones. There are metallic finish nylon zippers that look almost like real metal. If you want to use metal zippers, they should not be too chunky, jeans zippers are good, jacket zippers may be too heavy. You can use zipper tape or fixed length zippers about 8 inches long (you will be shortening them at one or both edges, and it doesn‘t really matter if they are separable or not).
Preparations
1. First we need to create a new pattern piece for the side panel with the zipper pockets. Fold the lower pocket piece at the fold line and attach it to the upper pocket piece at the line that says "Line up pocket here". Trace this complete panel onto a new piece of paper.
2. Now consider your zipper placement. I recommend placing the zippers diagonally instead of horizontally. If you have ever added a zipper pocket to a back waistband, you know that the vertical seams to the left and right of your zipper will get distorted when you are wearing the leggings, because the zipper does not stretch with the main fabric. Placing the zippers diagonally eliminates almost all of that distortion. You can make the zippers slant forwards or backwards, whichever way you like. Also, if you want more than one zipper, consider how far to space them apart so that they will be functional for the intended purpose. If you have a pair of SuperGs already, you can easily figure out the ideal zipper positions by putting the leggings on and checking in front of a mirror. I placed my first zipper about 5‘‘ from the top (measured in the center of the panel), and the other one another 5‘‘ down.
3. Mark the cut lines for the zippers on your paper piece. Before we cut it apart, we need something else! We will put another layer of fabric behind the zippers, to create the actual pockets. We will call this the pocket back. The top and bottom edge of the pocket back can be slanted or horizontal. It should extend about half an inch above the upper end of the top zipper, and as far below the bottom zipper as you want your bottom pocket to go.
In the picture below, the pink lines are for the pocket back, and the yellow lines are for the zippers.
4. You can trace the pocket back onto your fabric without cutting the paper piece apart, just fold the top and bottom away. Then cut the paper piece at the zipper cut lines and add seam allowances!! I usually write "add seam allowance" on the paper pieces and hope for the best ;) You can also glue a strip of paper behind the edge, or trace the piece onto yet another piece of paper with added seam allowance. How much seam allowance you add depends on your zipper width and sewing method. The visible part of the zipper will add a bit of length to the panel anyway, so for example if you want to sew with a 3/8 seam allowance, but the center part of your zipper (with the teeth) is 3/8 wide, adding ¼ to each fabric edge will be sufficient, as the rest will be added by the zipper. Don‘t fret! This doesn‘t have to be super accurate! Even if you completely forget to add seam allowances to these pieces, you will still be fine. At worst your panel will end up an inch short at the bottom, and you can always cheat with the hem there ;)
5. When you start to cut your fabric, keep in mind which side you want the zippers, and which side you want the slip pocket. You want two mirrored legs! In mine, the left leg has the zipper pockets, and the right leg has the slip pocket.
Sewing
1. We are going to put the panel pieces and the zippers together from top to bottom. Use a zipper foot! The fabric will most likely stretch a bit while you stitch it to the zipper, that doesn‘t matter. Just make sure that you are not getting any puckering, especially in the topstitching.
2. When you have connected all the panel pieces, shorten your zippers at the fabric edges. Make sure that your zipper pull is within the pocket section! If you are using nylon zippers, you can simply cut them off. If you are using metal zippers, trim off the teeth up to the seam allowance, i.e. about 1 inch in from the fabric edge, then cut off the excess. You can put a zipper stop next to the remaining teeth (in that case, take out enough teeth that the zipper stop will be out of the way of the seam line), but they will be secured by the vertical panel seams anyway.
3.Turn the panel wrong side up and position the pocket back piece on top. You can see here that my panel pieces stretched out a bit and are peeking out from under the pocket back at the right edge. It doesn‘t matter if it looks a bit wonky at this stage! You can fold the top and bottom edge of the pocket back in on itself or serge it for a clean finish. Baste the side edges of the pocket back to the panel. If you are using nylon zippers, you are stitching through the zippers at this step, if you are using metal zippers, you are stitching within the seam allowance where you took the teeth out. Cut the edges of the zippers back to within the seam allowance of the fabric layers.
4. Turn the panel right side up again. Sew horizontal seams through all layers above the top pocket, between the two pockets and at the bottom of the lower pocket, in order to create functional pockets. You can use a twin needle, decorative stitch or coverstitch for this, or just a basic stretch stitch.
5. Now attach the panel to the front and back leg pieces according to the instructions and continue with the rest of the sewing steps for your leggings.
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Lets start with the Sav's Sweatshirt.
The Youth Sav's Sweatshirt is a generous oversized pullover that's casual, comfortable and perfectly pairable. It has a bit of Bayside mixed together with a 2020's vibe and it is offered in a cropped option or full length.
You will need 1 -2 yards of non stretch or low stretch fabrics like sweatshirt knit, French Terry, Ponte, waffle knit Double knit. For the sleeve cuffs, neckband, and hem band use a cuff rib knit (ribbing) 1x1 or 2x1 rib.
Now, Let's get to the Youth Sundials!
A confident beginner sew with an A-List look, these youth leggings have today's V-shaped waistband that does more than just look good. An optional full waistband provides creative color-blocking opportunities and additional coverage. These have no side seam so they are great for showcasing beautiful fabric prints.
You will need 5/8 up to 1 yard of 75% horizontal stretch 50% vertical stretch performance fabric.
If you're looking to get both adult and youth sizes, we have the pattern bundles right here! Grab the youth and adult Sav's Sweatshirt here, and the youth and adult Sundial Leggings here.
Our testers did an amazing job as always, so check them out!
Afton Ditingo:
Stats/Mods: Size 6 lengthened bodice and sleeve to size 8
French Terry and Ribbing from Bow Button Fabrics.
Stats/Mods: Size 4 graded into 3 for waist
French Terry and coordinating rib knit for Sav's Sweatshirt and Euro Cotton Spandex for Sundials, both from Bow Button Fabric.
Amanda Jones:
Stats/Mods: Size 3
Cotton French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt and Athletic Brushed Polyester Sundials, both from So Sew English.
Cotton French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt with Double Brushed Polyester Sundials, both from So Sew English.
Amber Mack:
Stats/Mods: Size 6 width, 8 height.
Sweater Knit Sav's Sweatshirt and Double Brushed Polyester Sundials, both from Joann's.
Amelia Jane:
Stats/Mods: Size 2
Sweatshirt Fleece Sav's Sweatshirt from Rogue Fabrics, and Halo Fabric Sundials and bands from Halo Fabric Addicts.
Ang Hal:
Stats/Mods: Size 10 with 8 waist, 1.5" added
Microfleece Sav's Sweatshirt from Joann's, and Nike Athletic Fabric Sundials.
Microfleece Sav's Sweatshirt from Joann's, and Flex Sundials from Fabric Snob.
Rib Knit Sav's Sweatshirt and Flex Sundials from Fabric Snob.
Bec Munro:
Stats/Mods: Size 3, Chest: 21.25" Waist: (At belly button) 20.5" Hip: (Wearing a nappy) 22" Height: 36.5"
Brandi Lowery:
Stats/Mods: Size 8 no mods, and size 4 no mods.
French Terry and Ribbing Sav's sweatshirt from stash, and Luxe Double Brushed Polyester Sundials from Ash and Elm.
Cassandra Noone:
Stats/Mods: Size 7/8
Fabric from stash.
Celine Khoo:
Stats/Mods: Size 8
French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt and Athletic Knit Sundial Leggings.
Cyn Sule:
Stats/Mods: Size 5, B: 22.5” W: 21” H: 24.5” Height: 44.5”
Triblend Jersey Sav's Sweatshirt from Joann's, and Poly Spandex Sundial Leggings from Joann's.
Cynthia Hendrickson:
Stats/Mods: Size 10
Jacquard Poly Spandex Sav's Sweatshirt from Olga's Closet, and Align with Yoga Flex Sundial leggings from Greenstyle Creations.
Danielle Allen- modeled by Peyton:
Stats/Mods: Size 4
Performance Sav's Sweatshirt and Double Brushed Polyester Sundials from So Sew English.
Elda Castillo:
Stats/Mods: Size 4 no mods.
French Terry and matching Ribbing Sav's Sweatshirt from Millie and Dot.
Jen Pennington:
Stats/Mods: Size 12 with 10 length, and size 5 with 8 length.
Sweater knit Sav's Sweatshirt from stash, Athletic knit from Blended Thread fabrics Sundials.
French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt and Double Brushed Polyester Sundials, both from So Sew English.
Kamali Obiagu- modeled by Amethyst.
Stats/Mods: Size 4
French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt from Surge.
Katie Kimmell:
Stats/Mods: Size 7 with 8 length.
French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt from Mily Mae Fabrics.
Keri Blewett:
Stats/Mods: Size 12
Sweater Knit Sav's Sweatshirt and Nylon Spandex Sundials and bands from Made of Love Fabric.
Kira Hansen:
Stats/Mods: Size 2/3/4
Purple design Sav's Sweatshirt from Maz Made Fabric Designs Group Australia, and Athletic Knit Sundials from Fabricitus - Sew It Begins Australia.
Krystal Ithomitis:
Stats/Mods: Size 4 with 6 length.
Fabric from stash.
Kyema Greeley:
Stats/Mods: Size 3
Fabric from stash.
Lauren Turnbull:
Stats/Mods: Size 7
Navy Maps French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt from Blended Threads, and Athletic Knit Sundials from The Fabric Snob.
French Terry Sav's from the Fabric Snob, and Cotton Lycra Sundials from Cotton and Twirls Fabric Community.
Leah Winkelmann:
Stats/Mods: Size 2
Ribbed Knit Sav's Sweatshirt from Greenstyle Creations, Microflex Sundials from Joanns.
Lian Nesbitt:
Stats/Mods: Size 6c, 7/8w/h Sav's, Size 8w, 7h, 5l Sundials.
Leopard waffle knit Sav's Sweatshirt from Blended Threads, bamboo french terry ribbing from Discovery Fabrics. Honeycomb Sundials from Shear Perfection Fabric.
Megan Harvey:
Stats/Mods: Size 5, and size 2 Sav's.
Tie Dye Sweatshirt Fleece Sav's Sweatshirt from Raspberry Creek Fabrics, and Performance Knit Sundials from Joann's.
French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt from Raspberry Creek Fabric.
Melanie Burns- modeled by Naomi:
Stats/Mods: Size 5 no mods.
French Terry Sav's Sweatshirt from Walmart, and Tan Cat Poly Spandex from Greenstyle Creations.
Nicole Librojo:
Stats/Mods: Size 4w, 5h
Waffle knit Sav's Sweatshirt from Millie & Dot, and Ribbing from Bow Button Fabrics.
Nikki Scott:
Stats/Mods: Size 5 and 7
Rib Knit Sav's Sweatshirt from Joanns, size 7 Cotton Lycra Sundials from The Styled Magnolia and size 5 Athletic Knit Sundials from Blended Thread Fabric.
Patricia PF:
Stats/Mods: Size 4 and size 12
Sav's Sweatshirt is perfectly oversized without being sloppy. This sweatshirt features a drop sleeve, a wide rib neckband, rib cuffs and hem band, and two lengths- cropped and full length. The cropped length hits right at the top of the high hip, so it's perfect for pairing with those high waisted bottoms!
This pattern is designed for low or non stretch fabrics like sweatshirt knit, French Terry, Ponte, or double knit for the main, and the sleeve cuffs, neckband, and hem band are designed for rib knit, however, you can also use fabric with good stretch and recovery like athletic or cotton lycra for them if you choose. This pattern takes anywhere from 2 to 2 1/3 yards of fabric for the main depending on size made, and about 1/2 yard for cuffs, neckband, and hem band. This pattern also follows our current B-M size chart. Please choose your size based on your measurements and not your RTW size.
Our testers did an amazing job of showing all the different ways to style Sav's Sweatshirt, so check them out here!
Afton Ditingo:
Stats/Mods: Size F bust graded to G waist and hips, added 1/2" to bodice for height and 1.5" to sleeves.
Waffle Knit from Fabmere Fabrics.
Oakley knit and ribbing from So Sew English.
Ang Hal:
Stats/Mods: Size C, no mods.
Hacci knit from Made of Love.
Sweater Knit from fabric stash.
Blair Reber:
Stats/Mods: Size F, no mods.
Sweatshirt knit and rib from Made Whimsy fabrics.
Caitlin MK:
Stats/Mods: Size F.
Dri Release from Sew Dynamic Fabrics.
French Terry from Boho fabrics, ribbing from Bow Button fabrics.
Courtney Abbey:
Stats/Mods: Size J
Heathered French Terry from L'Oiseau fabric.
Cynthia Hendrickson:
Stats/Mods: Size E, no mods.
Quilted knit from Joann, rib knit from stash.
Danielle Heuseveldt:
Stats/Mods: Size F.
French Terry euro knit and ribbing from Made Whimsy.
Plush plus from Joann and micro rib from Cali fabrics.
Modal knit and athletic rib from Joann.
Danielle Rose:
Stats/mods: Size F, added 1" length to bodice and sleeves.
White heavy cotton French Terry from So Sew English, with rib knit from Joann.
Djem Ferkenstad:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Ribbed Knit from Elevated Fashion Fabric.
Elda Castillo:
Stats/Mods: Size H no mods.
Hacci from So Sew English.
Right side loop French Terry from So Sew English.
Elise Rowe:
Stats/Mods: Size B
French Terry with rib cuffs and bands.
Fabric from stash.
Emily Cummings:
Stats/Mods: Size I, shortened sleeves 1.5".
Luxe fleece with cotton lycra bands and cuffs from Joann.
Eva Buchel:
Stats/Mods: Size F, no mods.
Baby French Terry from Walmart with cotton lycra cuffs and bands from stash.
Waffle sweater knit from Walmart.
Florida Nordstrom:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Knit from stash.
Jessica See:
Stats/Mods: Size H
French Terry from Love Adore Knit with ribbing from stash.
Katie Richards:
Stats/Mods: Size I
Tie Dye knit from Amelia Lane fabrics.
Kayla Murphy:
Stats/Mods: Size D no mods
Fabric from stash.
Fabric from stash.
Kayleigh Landon:
Stats/Mods: Size E graded to G hip.
French Terry from Miley Mae,
Krystal Lee:
Stats/Mods: Size B
Non stretch sweatshirt fabric.
Non stretch sweatshirt fabric.
Lauren Turnbull:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Interlock with cotton lycra bands.
Interlock with ribbing bands.
Lisa Zimmerman:
Stats/Mods: Size M no mods.
Sweatshirt fleece with tie dye French Terry from Seweird Fabric.
Livia Jonker-Yamada:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Fabric from stash.
Fabric from stash.
Mary Cheddie:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Baby French Terry from Walmart.
Lightweight rib knit from Walmart.
Meghan Keder:
Stats/Mods: Size G, 1/2" swayback adjustment,
Cotton lycra French Terry with rib knit cuffs and bands from Abby's Tekstiler.
Hemp/cotton blend knit from Abby's Tekstiler.
Melanie Burns:
Stats/Mods: Size C no mods.
Bliss from Blended Thread Fabric with brushed yoga bands and cuffs from Greenstyle Creations.
Sweatshirt Knit from Made Whimsy fabric with brushed yoga bands and cuffs from Greenstyle Creations.
Morland Brawner:
Stats/Mods: Size K
Knit from stash.
Nichole Langmeyer:
Stats/Mods: Size H bust, I waist.
French Terry from Seweird Fabric.
Sweater Knit from Boho Fabric.
Rejeana Ebata:
Stats/Mods: Size C no mods.
Hacci knit from So Sew English, rib knit from Joann.
Sarah Long:
Stats/Mods: Size H/I
Luxe fleece from Joann.
Luxe fleece from Joann.
Shelly Andrews:
Stats/Mods: Size I no mods
Sweater Knit from Joann.
Susi Schuegraf:
Stats/Mods: Size E, sleeves lengthened 1.5"
French Terry from Seweird Fabric.
Teal grunge knit from Jumping June Textiles.
Bamboo Velour from fabric.com.
Synthia Fetke:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Fabric from stash.
Fabric from stash.
Teresa Bellnoski:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Waffle knit with ribbing cuffs and bands from Millie and Dot.
Heavyweight French Terry from ribbing cuffs and bands from Millie and Dot.
Tori Chapel:
Stats/Mods: Size E no mods.
Cotton French Terry from Surge fabrics.
Brushed Terry Athletic from Joann and Adventurer rib from Surge.
Poly Rayon Spandex French Terry and rib from Joann.
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The big question I've seen y'all asking so far is "what's the difference between the flare leggings and the everyday yoga pants?" so I'm going to break that down for you. The Everyday Yoga pants are a slightly more relaxed fit yoga pant that has one waistband option: fold over. They're also an older pattern and don't follow our updated size chart, so the new Flare Legging pattern will be a replacement for the Everyday Yoga pattern, which will be retired.
Now, the Flare Leggings are the new and improved Everyday Yoga pants, with a more fitted upper leg, 4 waistband options including cross over V, straight V, standard contoured and even a fold over yoga band, two lengths, and most importantly, POCKETS! Also, it comes in 3 different heights, petite, standard, and tall so you don't have to worry about the flare curve when adding or removing length.
Fabric Requirements:
Our testers did an amazing job of showing how versatile this pattern is! From work to the gym to lounging on the couch, the Flare Leggings are perfect for wherever you want to take them!
Ang Hal:
Stats/Mods: size C petite low rise with the B band.
Rib Knit.
Ashley Oliver:
Stats/Mods: Size G, standard length.
Double Brushed Polyester.
Double Brushed Polyester.
Brandi Lowery:
Stats/Mods: Size G, petite length, high waist, C band.
Luxe Double Brushed Poly from Ash and Elm Limited Textiles.
Bri Fraser:
Stats/Mods: Size F with A band, standard length.
Knit fabric.
Candice Doucet:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Brushed Yoga from Greenstyle Creations.
Cassandra Noone:
Stats/Mods: Size D/E with B low rise waistband.
Athletic Knit from Joanns.
Athletic Knit from Joanns.
Chandra Hamilton:
Stats/Mods: Size L
Double Brushed Nylon from Sew Fit Fabrics.
Christina Pikas:
Stats/Mods: Size J graded to K at thighs, upper back waistband graded to I. High rise waist B
Athletic fabric from Joann's.
Courtney Abbey:
Stats/Mods: Size J, band B, petite length.
Grey Athletic Knit from Discovery Fabrics.
Cynthia Hendrickson:
Stats/Mods: Size E, petite length, low rise B waistband.
Poly Spandex Jaquard from Olga's Closet.
Daisy Buitrago:
Stats/Mods: Size C, petite length.
Grey Honeycomb Knit with Grey athletic knit waistband.
Dana Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size J
Rib Knit from Olga's Closet.
Rib Knit from fabric stash.
Danielle Allen:
Stats/Mods: Size F, standard length.
Athletic Knit from Joann's.
Djem Ferkenstad:
Stats/Mods: Size F waist/hip, E thighs, waistband B, petite length.
Jegging fabric from Purpleseamstress.
Ponte from Seweird Fabric.
Elda Castillo:
Stats/Mods: Size H
Knit fabric from fabric stash.
Eva Buchel:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Army Grey Athletic Rib Knit from Greenstyle Creations.
Brushed Athletic Knit.
Luon fabric from Discovery Fabrics.
Florence Taylor:
Stats/Mods: Size L waist/M hip.
Fabric from stash.
Fabric from stash.
Fabric from stash.
Holly Ward:
Stats/Mods: Size H/G
Double Brushed Polyester from Joanns.
Double Brushed Polyester from Joanns.
Jess Wilcox:
Stats/Mods: Size M, standard height, waistband C
Scuba from fabric stash.
Jessica Cee:
Stats/Mods: Size H
Emerald Green Arete from Greenstyle Creations.
AOS fabric from Bow Button Fabrics.
Josie Aviles:
Stats/Mods: J waist, k for the rest. Removed .5" from B waistband, added .5" to length of thigh.
Med light weigh athletic from Whiskey Tango Fabrics.
Kamali Obiagu:
Stats/Mods: Size I graded to J hips.
Jegging fabric from Purpleseamstress.
Tie Dye Brushed Yoga from Greenstyle Creations.
Katie Kimmel:
Stats/Mods: Size F standard height, C high rise waistband
Athletic Knit.
Kayla Murphy:
Stats/Mods: Straight size D, waistband option B, Standard height with 1" removed from hem.
Emerge fabric from The Styled Magnolia.
Kayla Smith:
Stats/Mods: Size I
Yoga Flex from Greenstyle Creations.
Lian Nesbitt:
Stats/Mods: Petite length size G graded to H waist. Highrise C waistband with pockets.
Athletic Knit from Blended Thread Fabrics.
Livia Jonker-Yamada:
Stats/Mods: Size F graded to J
Knit fabric from stash.
Mary Cheddie:
Stats/Mods: Size G, tall height, low rise.
Athletic Knit from the Fabric Fairy.
Size H tall, low rise with med rise waistband:
Supplex from stash.
Nichole Langmeyer:
Stats/Mods: Size I with H waistband
French Terry from Blended Thread Fabrics.
Nicole Librojo:
Stats/Mods: Size G, petite height.
Ponte from My Favorite Fabrics.
Athletic Brushed Polyester from Bow Button Fabrics.
Rae Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size H waist I hips, high rise C band.
Matte Lycra from Molly's of Kensington.
Matte Lycra from Molly's of Kensington.
Rejeana Ebata:
Stats/Mods: Size D, Petite height, B band
Ponte from Miley Mae Fabrics.
Athletic Brushed Polyester from The Styled Magnolia.
Sarah Connell:
Stats/Mods: Size C high waist.
Zen from the Fabric Fairy.
Shelly Andrews:
Stats/Mods: Size J graded to K for thighs and calves. Size I waistband in style B (high rise)
ABP Mulberry Space Ombre from the Styled Magnolia.
Watercolor Arete from Greenstyle Creations.
Stephanie Tharp:
Stats/Mods: Size J, C waistband.
Ponte from fabric stash.
Summer McCarty:
Stats/Mods: Size C graded to D waist, petite length, high rise waist.
Athletic Knit from Hobby Lobby.
Fabric from stash.
Susi Schuegraf:
Stats/Mods: Size F, tall height.
Rib Knit from Mily Mae Fabric.
Deluxe Supplex from Greenstyle Creations.
Athletic Knit from FDIM.
Rib Knit from Mily Mae Fabric.
Athletic Knit from So Sew English.
Synthia Gerritson:
Stats/Mods: H-for waist, G-for Hip, G- for mid thigh, E-for calf.
Athletic Fabric from stash.
Knit fabric from stash.
Knit fabric from stash.
Knit fabric from stash.
Teal Keller:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Double Brushed Nylon from Sew Fit Fabrics.
Teresa Orpen:
Stats/Mods: Size H, tall height, high waist.
YSS from Zenith and Quasar.
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The Lumia zip up hoodie has a cool front curve and back yoke that are perfect for color blocking or adding contrasting piping. The huge pockets and 3 piece scuba style hood or collar make this hoodie stand out! With clear, easy to follow instructions and clean, professional finishing techniques, this pattern will have you making more and more Lumia hoodies to fill your closet!
This pattern is drafted for stable knit fabrics with 25% 4 way stretch, such as Scuba, French Terry, Ponte, or other stretch outerwear fabric. Soft-shell can be used, but it is recommended you size up for fabrics with little to no stretch. This pattern also takes 2 1/2-3 yards of fabric depending on size made, and uses a 26" zipper for sizes B-E, 27" zipper for sizes F-I, and 28" zipper for sizes J-M. You'll also need grommets and drawstring if choosing to do the drawstring option, and some fusible interfacing for stability if using higher stretch fabrics.
This pattern follows our current size chart of B-M. Choose your size based on your measurements, and if your measurements fall in different sizes, grade between sizes for best fit. If you have any questions, head on over to our Facebook group to find a very supportive group of people willing to help you out!
As always, our testers had a blast testing this pattern for y'all, so here they are in all their awesome glory! Check them out below and show them a little love!
Amber Rae Mack:
Stats/Mods: Size C, no mods
Oil Painted Roses on Lilac Gray Scuba Knit from Boho Fabrics.
Blair Reber:
Stats/Mods: Size G no mods.
Athletic Brushed Polyester from The Styled Magnolia.
Brenda Schultz:
Stats/Mods: Size I
Windpro Fleece from SAS Fabrics.
Superplush from So Sew English.
Courtney Abbey:
Stats/Mods: Size I
Cotton French Terry from Blended Thread Fabrics with pink Yoga Stretch from Discovery Fabrics.
Crystal Lee:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Athletic Knit from Seweird Fabric and Rainbow separating zipper from Wizardry Stitchery.
Dana Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size J, full bicep adjustment, no other mods.
Illusion Athletic Knit from Whisky Tango Fabrics.
Danielle Allen:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Cherry Red Arete from Greenstyle Creations.
Black Athletic Brushed Polyester from The Styled Magnolia and Orange fabric from stash.
Eva Buchel:
Stats/Mods: Size F
Heavyweight Cotton Lycra French Terry from personal stash.
Cotton French Terry with black Cotton Lycra French Terry accents, both from personal stash.
Jocie Goldman:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Cotton French Terry from So Sew English.
Jody Kappas:
Stats/Mods: Size C graded to D.
Brushed French Terry with Quilted knit accent, from So Sew English. The gold aglets are also from So Sew English, the gold zipper is from Wawak, and the gold grommets are from Hobby Lobby.
Karina Trinidad:
Stats/Mods: Size H to I hips.
Heavy low stretch Polyamide athletic knit from local fabric store.
Kayla Smith:
Stats/Mods: Size F graded to H hip.
Endurance XC from The Styled Magnolia with Ponte from Joanns.
Ponte from Fabric Mart.
Kayleigh Landon:
Stats/Mods: Size F graded to G
Fabric from fabric stash.
Fabric from fabric stash.
Kimberly Henry:
Stats/Mods: Size L
Cable Knit from fabric stash.
Leah Winkelmann:
Stats/Mods: Size E
Microflex from Joann's.
Stats/Mods: Size G
Microfleece from Joann's.
Mary Werre:
Stats/Mods: Size C
French Terry from fabric stash.
Stats/Mods: Size D
Ponte from fabric stash.
Melanie Burns:
Stats/Mods: Size C
Soft-shell from The Fabric Fairy, Striped ABP from The Styled Magnolia for piping, and Ribbed Athletic Knit from Greenstyle for band and cuffs.
Purple Geo Soft-shell from Blended Thread Fabrics, hacked to eliminate the bottom band.
Nadine Simard:
Stats/Mods: Size D, shortened body and sleeve length.
Black Polartec Windpro Stretch from Discovery Fabrics.
Fushia French Terry from L'Oiseau Fabric.
Nicole Librojo:
Stats/Mods: Size F/G, shortened sleeves and bodice by 1".
Athletic Brushed Polyester from The Styled Magnolia with solid 265 GSM ABP from Surge Fabrics.
Rae Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size H/I
Grey Athletic Lycra with Black Sweatshirt Fleece from stash.
Rejeana Ebata:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Velvet Ponte from Joann's.
Shelly Andrews:
Stats/Mods: Size K upper graded to J waist/hips, added 1.5" for height.
French Terry from Millie and Dot.
Shi Sen:
Stats/Mods: Size G
Pink Ak fabric from Phany Création.
Leopard gradient ft from Couture et compagnie.
Stacey Goett:
Stats/Mods: Size K
20% 2-way stretch woven (floral) from local store and CL (heathered grey) from Libelle Sewing.
Susi Schuegraf:
Stats/Mods: Size F with lengthened sleeves.
Bullet fabric from Knitpop.
Marrón Recycled athletic from blue moon and grey athletic from FIDM .
Scuba from Mood Fabrics.
Tania Keller:
Stats/Mods: Size C, shortened for height.
French Terry from Blended Thread Fabric.
Teal Keller:
Stats/Mods: Size D
Black/white floral French terry from Mily Mae Fabrics.
Blue leafy French terry from Textile Twins.
Tori Chapel:
Stats/Mods: Size E
CFT - gray from Raspberry Creek and print from Styled Magnolia.
Wendy Bennett:
Stats/Mods: Size H/I, added 2" for height.
Bamboo French Terry with bamboo cuff ribbing from Bow Button Fabrics.
Grey Knit from Joann's.
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Pattern alterations
*These alterations are for a tshirt style hem and sleeve. If you do want to have a banded hem, you will not alter the length on any pieces.
** If using a lightweight ABP and want a more fitted top.
For install of the zipper and collar, check out the awesome tutorial on the Greenstyle Youtube channel.
Click the following link…https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54Gj8PDxypc
Follow Lumia instructions to construct back, sew on sleeves, and sew front and back body together along side seam.
*If looking for a more fitted silhouette, follow the lines of the front piece. It is recommended to baste and check fit along the side seam.
This super trendy, versatile top can give you SO many different looks! It has 3 length options: Bra, Crop, or Hip length, 3 lining options: Shelf bra, Banded bra, or Liner only, and has 3 different cup sizes: Small, Medium, and Large. Choose the small cup if you have a 0-2" difference between high and full bust, medium cup if you have a 3-4" difference, and large if you have a 5-6" difference.
Wear it in or out; it's a bra, a crop, or a corset inspired top. Make it out of Athletic fabric for a sporty look, or add some mesh or lace accents for a super sexy look! The choice is yours!
Get the Corset Bra and top HERE, on sale for $8.75 until October 12th, after which it will return to $12.
Our testers are ALL feeling themselves in this top, so check them out and see all their versions here!
Amber Dawn:
Stats/Mods: Size G, medium cup, banded bra.
Heavy Athletic fabric with Swim lining.
Amber Rae Mack:
Stats/Mods: Size C, small cup, hip length.
Black Confetti Foil Athletic fabric from Sew Fit Fabrics.
Ang Hal:
Stats/Mods: Size C, no mods.
Premium Performance fabric from Surge Fabrics.
Athletic Brushed Polyester.
Annie Civit:
Stats/Mods: Size F bust, I waist, medium cup.
Cotton Lycra from personal fabric stash.
Bianca Crispin:
Stats/Mods: Size G, large cup.
Athletic Knit.
Blair Reber:
Stats/Mods: Size G, small cup, no mods.
Yoga Flex from Greenstyle Creations.
Brenda Schultz:
Stats/Mods: Size I large cup.
Brushed Nylon from Zenith and Quasar.
Mesh from fabric stash.
Carmen Brent:
Stats/Mods: Size E medium cup.
Fabric from fabric stash.
Fabric from fabric stash.
Cynthia Hendrickson:
Stats/Mods: Size D, large cup, 1" removed from straps.
Athletic Brushed Poly from fabric stash.
Swim Knit from Olga's Closet.
Daisy Buitrago:
Stats/Mods: Size B, shelf bra, crop length.
Red Athletic Knit, Stripey Swim, Shelf Bra in Mesh Athletic.
Dana Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size J, Large cup.
Black Foil Speck from Surge Fabrics.
Danielle Allen:
Stats/Mods: Size F, Medium cup.
Chipotle Deluxe Supplex from Greenstyle and Mesh from Joann's.
Danielle Heuseveldt:
Stats/Mods: Size F, Small cup.
Custom Athletic fabric from Shear Madness for main, Heavy Athletic Brushed Poly for lining.
Athletic fabric from fabric stash.
Debora VanHamlin:
Stats/Mods: Size F at the shoulders/upper bust, graded out to G under the arm, and the hip length top is graded out to H at the waist/hip (with the back graded out to I at the hip).
Nylon/Spandex Tricot from Phee Fabrics.
Circular Knit from Phee and Chiffon from fabric stash.
Diane Cullum:
Stats/Mods: Size D graded to C at bust, small cup.
Athletic Knit from SAS Warehouse in Phoenix.
Brushed Polyester from SAS Warehouse in Phoenix.
Djem Ferkenstad:
Stats/Mods: Size F upperbust, E bust, F waist. Small cup. -0.5” from strap. -1” bodice for side waist.
Space Dye Athletic Knit from Whiskey Tango Fabrics.
Elda Castillo:
Stats/Mods: Size H, Medium cup, Hip length.
Velvet lined with Cotton Lycra.
Eva Buchel:
Stats/Mods: Size F, Medium cup, no mods.
Align fabric from Greenstyle Creations.
Brushed Yoga from Greenstyle Creations.
Jasmine Capel:
Stats/Mods: Size I, Large cup, no mods.
Knit fabric from Twisted Needle Textiles.
Jess Wilcox:
Stats/Mods: Size K graded to M waist, Medium cup.
Stretch Suede from So Sew English and Stretch Cord from Miley Mae Fabric.
Jessica Cee:
Stats/Mods: Size H, Medium cup.
Power Flex and Arete from Greenstyle Creations, with matching Spark Tights.
Jessica LaPorte:
Stats/Mods: Size H, Large cup, Graded out to I hip in hip length version.
Fabric from So Sew English.
Fabric from fabric stash.
Corduroy from Walmart.
Kara Mooney:
Stats/Mods: Size C, small cup.
Nylon Spandex with Ponte lining from fabric stash.
Kendel Walker:
Stats/Mods: Size F, Medium cup.
Athletic fabric from The Styled Magnolia.
Athletic fabric from fabric stash.
Kimberly Dehuff:
Stats/Mods: Size C, small cup.
Luxe Nylon Spandex and Agility fabric from Greenstyle Creations.
Supplex from fabric stash.
Krystal Lee:
Stats/Mods: Size B, no mods.
Sports Performance fabric.
Athletic Performance fabric.
Lisa Thrower:
Stats/Mods: Size G, Large cup.
Italian Matte Lycra from Fabworks with accents of Wattle and Slate athleisure in Flow Motion print.
Yoga Flex from Greenstyle Creations with Meryl from Fabric Fairy as lining.
Mary Cheddie:
Stats/Mods: Size G, 3" added to length.
Burgundy black glimmer from JoAnns.
Double Brushed Poly from Joann's.
Mary Werre:
Stats/Mods: Size D, Small cup, straps shortened 1".
Butter Athletic from Halo Fabric Addicts.
Butter Athletic fabric from Halo Fabric Addicts.
Butter Athletic Fabric from Halo Fabric Addicts.
Nicole Walsh:
Stats/Mods: Size G, Medium cup.
Custom weight CL from TKB for the darker bit, paired with wine colored powermesh.
Rae Miller:
Stats/Mods: Size G, Large cup.
Athletic Performance fabric lined with Power Mesh.
Rae Nagy:
Stats/Mods: Size H bust, G waist, Large cup.
Navy Align fabric from Greenstyle Creations.
Rejeana Ebata:
Stats/Mods: Size C, small cup.
Arete from Greenstyle Creations.
Shelly Andrews:
Stats/Mods: Size H/I, small cup.
Power Flex from Greenstyle Creations.
Border Print from fabric stash.
Stacey Goett:
Stats/Mods: Size K, no mods.
Athletic Knit from local fabric store.
Athletic Knit from Stitch Happens.
Susi Schuegraf:
Stats/Mods: Size E, small cup.
Athletic Mesh from The Fabric Fairy.
Athletic Brushed Polyester from The Styled Magnolia.
Stretch Lace from FDIM, Pink athletic from HS.
Arete from Greenstyle Creations.
Butter Athletic from Halo Fabric Addicts.
Synthia Gerritson:
Stats/Mods: Size H, Medium cup, added 1.5" to length.
Athletic fabric from fabric stash.
Tammie Schaefer:
Stats/Mods: Size D, width E, small cup.
Athletic Knit from Zenith and Quasar with solid Athletic Knit from the Fab Clique fabric shoppe.
Teal Keller:
Stats/Mods: Size D.
Enigma from The Styled Magnolia.
Black and White Rib Knit from Greenstyle Creations.
Victoria Williamson:
Stats/Mods: Size L bust, M hips.
Rainbow Knit from fabric stash.
Knit fabric from fabric stash.
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