Hey y’all! I am Alex Soelke, and I am excited to join you on the Greenstyle blog today! I love a good pocket in my me-made clothes, and the moxi shorts are no exception. In this post, I will show you how to add an invisible zipper pocket to the side seam of your moxi shorts. I love the zipper pocket option in the waistband, but I need more space! I find I’m always carrying around chapstick, spare pacifiers and snacks so the extra pocket room is crucial!
Additional Materials:
- Invisible zipper foot (You can use a regular zipper foot if you don’t have one.)
- a 6 " or greater invisible zipper (mine is larger and I will trim it down). You will need 2 zippers if you are doing 2 pockets.
- 1 Pocket piece (10 ”x 6”), cut 2 if you are doing 2 pockets.
Let's get started! First, cut out all the required pattern pieces for your shorts as indicated in the pattern plus your pocket piece(s). If you are only doing one pocket, you will need to decide which side you want to put your zipper pocket on. I find it is easier to lay the upper back right side up so that you are looking at the left and right side as they would be while wearing the shorts.
Next, serge both the edge of the upper back and the front side seam without trimming off any seam allowance. Also, serge the edges of your pocket piece and set aside for later.
Place zipper right side down on the edge of the top back piece with the edge of the zipper tape lined up with the edge of the fabric. Make sure the top of the zipper is 3/8” down from the top seam. We want to leave room for sewing on the waistband. I also made a mark 5.5” down from the top edge.
Use your invisible zipper foot and place the zipper teeth in the groove underneath. Sometimes you need to roll the zipper teeth out a bit to fit into the channel (You could also use a regular zipper foot, I just tend to get a closer and straighter line with the invisible foot). Sew down the edge starting at the top and stopping at the mark you made 5.5 inches down.
This is what it will look like from the front side after sewing the seam.
Mark the same 3/8” and 5.5” down on the opposite side of the zipper tape.
Place right side of the zipper on the right side of the front side panel. Sew between the marks.
Next, we want to finish the seam below the 5.5 inch mark. Pull the end of the zipper out of the way and sew the fabric right sides together with a 3/8” seam allowance up from the bottom. Do not catch the zipper in this seam. Try and get as close as possible when you get near the zipper. I find using my regular zipper foot helps with this.
Trim off excess zipper tape. At this time you can topstitch the side seam below the zipper if you would like.
Now we are going to attach the pocket. Place one 6” edge of the pocket with the fabric right side to the wrong side of the zipper with the edges lining up. Also, make sure the top of the pocket is even with the top of the front piece. We want to catch the pocket in the waistband seam later. Sew down the edge of the pocket piece.
Fold the pocket in half, right sides together and place the other right side of pocket on the wrong side of the other half of the zipper. Make sure the pocket is lined up evenly and sew down the edge.
Sew along the bottom of the pocket to close. Get as close to the zipper tape as you can without actually sewing over it.
Fold your pocket over to the wrong side of the short front piece and baste to the top. Make sure your zipper is pulled down so you don’t hit it with your needle. Leave it down for attaching waistband later. Cut off excess zipper tape and you are FINISHED with your pocket! Finish the rest of your shorts as directed in the pattern.
**Fabric from this tutorial is from The Styled Magnolia Custom Fabrics
